The New To Graffiti Thread

[koper]

DO NOT POST ANYTHING OTHER THAN TUTORIALS IN THIS THREAD, DISOBEYING THIS RULE COULD EARN YOU A SUSPENSION
And please dont go cry in your bed if your tutorial is deleted, there has to be quality control in this thread.

This thread is for tutorials or articles dedicated to teaching people about graffiti.

Thanx to "What Happened to the Letters" for this article:

ok so here is a page taken out of the art of getting over, it was originally a transscript at the Graffiti Writers Local One Union Hall.



SO YOU WANT TO WRITE ON WALLS?
There are few things you must do to make your presence in this subculture a welcome one. First; Know the history. Second; Know the rules of the game. Third; work hard at being good, or at least competent. Fourth; snitches and shit tlakers get stitches and need walkers. Fifth; you're good, but not that good. Keep your fat head to a reasonable swell and get back to work. These are the five fingers to your left hand, get to know them well. Soon you'll be able to get a grip on your self-esteem and we'll all be better for it.


FIRST : INDUSTRY
Cavemen drew pictures on walls, but egyptians were the first language artists, then Romans bit the steez. The Greeks, Incans, and Native Americans all got with the program. There was graffiti on the New York subway a year after it was built. There is graffiti on the moon. If graffiti is vandalism, and vandalism is a form of pollution, then man has left his mark with garbage at the fullest reaches of the universe. So you with your pathetic desire to be remembered are in good company. It's important to know how graff developed in your area code, so consul local experts, and remember, everybody lies.


SECOND; THE RULES
1)You suck until further notice
2)It's gonna take a long time before we even acknowledge your existence, even longer before we can bear to look at that foul scribble you clal your name. To speed the process of acceptance, you can:
A-Choose a clever name that defies the norm of simple-minded slang. An example of a good name is "ARGUE" (RIP). It looks good when written, sounds cool when spoken, and conveys a combatative attitude. On the other hand "ENEMA" (actual name) looks, sounds, and conveys a shitty attitude. BE CHOOSY.
B-Use paint, gain a thorough knowledge of supplies, remember that permission walls, stickers, and dust tags are small parts of a balanced diet, be bold, learn a style of writing for every occasion, and write your name bigger every time you go out.
3)Jealousy is a disease for the weak
4)Your heart is your greatest possession, don't let it get taken from you.
5) Don't writ on houses of worship, people's houses in general, other writers names, and tombstones. Writing on memorial wallas and cars is beef beyond belief. Furthermore, involving civilians in your beef is gorunds for dismissal. These are the five finges to your right hand. Get to know them well. Give them soul claps, firm handshakes, and throw smooth bolo punches


THIRD; DEVELOPING STYLE
Although being a toy seems undesirable, you should enjoy it while you can. at this stage you can bite all you want with no remorse. All your elders will say is, "Awww isn't that cute, kootchie kotchie koo." So steal that dope connection, rob that color scheme, and loot whole letterforms. Don't worry about giving any credit, we'll pat ourselves on the back and brag how we influenced the next generation. However, style isn't a cruch or schtick. It is understanding why that connection you bit flows, or why that color scheme bumps. Style is the process to an appealing end. Once you got it down to a science, you cna reinvent letterforms to suit yourself. This creative growth will amaze the old and young alike. Pretty soon somebody will steal your secret sauce and the cycle will be renewed. If this happens to you, don't bitch about not getting your due.

Graffiti is the language of the ignored. If your style is stolen, someone heard you speaking. You got what you wanted from the beginning, some attention, you big baby.


FOURTH: THE LAW
It must be noted that hte vandal squad loves graffiti. Their job requires them to fiend for graff as much as you do. When you wreck enough walls, they'll want ot meet you. Just liek the ball huggers outside the graff shop, they'll recite every spot you hit, with the difference being you'll also hear the miranda warning. To postpone this, go solo as much as possible. Don't write with anyone that won't fight for you. Don't be paranoid, but be careful. If you avoid writing on pristine properties, you'll stay in misdameanor territory, and you woen't divert the cops attention from pastry and caffein consumption (consult local laws to be sure). Remember, if they didnt see you do it, it's almost impossible for them to win a conviction without your damming testimony. Shut up, shut up, SHUT UP! Giving a cop info on another writer wil doom you to a life of ridicule, from cops and kids alike, with no parole.


FIFTH: EGO TRIPPIN
There';s nothign wrong iwth knowing you're the shit as long as you are. But once you reach that conclusion, you're one foot ove the edge of falling off. Watch your step fathead, theres no shortage of people chanting, "JUMP JUMP JUMP!" There are plenty of writers that have been painting for well ovr 20 years, and your posing and fronting looks retarted next to them. Get back to work you "never was" slouch.
In conclusion, graffiti is free,impresses the girls, is heroic in our coach potatoe culture, will provide you with a million stories to tell at parties, and a sure cure for the inner city blues. If it's not fun, you're doing it wrong or have been doing it too long. So get going, fame awaits the fly amongst you
-Mark Surface

[d_g]

Online copy of All City. (http://www.sekondhandprojects.com/allcitybook/index.htm)

Has some good tutorials and interviews.

[minesweep]

via artcrimes

Graffiti Introduction
This file needs YOUR help! please continue to make it more complete and more enjoyable to read.. thanks!
(meem@gnu.ai.mit.edu)

There is rarely a day that goes by when I fail to see someone sporting a Stussy T-shirt or cap. It seems like ever since "Smells Like Teen Spirit" grunge took over the world that the seventies, along with its plethora of fads, is back in style. This includes not only bell-bottoms, but also what is known as the aerosol culture. Unfortunately, it seems that the core of the whole art is still back in the seventies for many of today's writers, and superfluous repainting of objects by non-union workers is without the moral codes, feelings, and purposes it once had. This introduction to graffiti is intended to serve both as a guide for newcomers and a reference for experienced writers who sometimes lose sight as to what its all about.

Tagging, the most primitive form of the graffiti art, consists of a writer's signature, usually done in permanent marker or spray paint. Artistically, tagging is the root of graffiti, and a skill a writer must become proficient at before becoming an accomplished graffiti artist.

The first thing you need to do is choose a tag, or a name which you will be known by in the graffiti community. DO NOT TAKE THIS LIGHTLY; if you choose something stupid it will come back to haunt you. "Stupid" things include choosing initials, nicknames, names already in use, famous people, corny or trite words, and words that are just plain dumb. A tag is usually 3 to 7 characters but can be shorter or longer if really deemed necessary. Those with a tag greater than 4 letters will often find it necessary to develop a "shortened" version of the tag for time and space-sensitive places. In tagging, as _Subway Art_ [Chalfant] (a book regarded by writers as the "Graffiti Bible") points out, "[graffiti writers] confront the first need to have style."

_Subway Art_ goes on to say that "Style is a very concrete idea among writers. It is form, the shapes of the letters, and how they connect. There are various categories of style, ranging from the old, simple bubble letters ... to highly evolved and complex wildstyle, an energetic interlocking construction of letters with arrows and other forms that signify movement and direction." Just as one can say "thanks," and mean it honestly, sarcastically, scornfully, or any of a thousand different ways, it is how the word is delivered that determines how it is understood. Graffiti without style, much like a monotonous voice, becomes ambiguous, and is either interpreted with hatred or indifference. Simply put, style speaks a thousand more words than a writer's tag ever will.

Each tag without style can be thought of as a writer without true devotion and commitment for the art. It represents a writer who wants the fame, glory, and recognition without sacrificing the many hours necessary to obtain the skills required for style. Becoming adept in translating emotions into rapid and smooth lines is a never-ending process that in essence is the key to all graffiti.

When I began writing, I thought the only thing needed to get famous was to go around writing my name, but it wasn't long before that illusion wore off. I still see trash cans and phone booths with old tags of mine on them, but I'm ashamed of them now. Ashamed of them because they demonstrated my ignorance to the feelings and passions that fuel the art. Ashamed of them because they had no style.

Almost every time I hit up an area, I go back a week later to check it out. I return not to admire it, but to analyze and critique it. I take photos of everything (except plain tags), to help me find and work through the flaws of my art. This process appears to be often overlooked by writers at Newton South, but I think it is far more important than the work itself. As _Subway Art_ states, "Graffiti is a public performance," and everything one submits will be critiqued by every passer-by, so it's better if you can examine it and improve it before anyone else gets the chance.

It is unfortunate that many beginning writers think the only admission to the graff community is going down to Staples and buying a permanent marker. Magnums, Mean Streaks, and SG-7's do not make one an accomplished writer, they merely make one a vandal. It is then up to that vandal to privately evolve his or her art to lettering with emotion and energy.

Just as one would not try an instrument out for the first time at a public performance, the best way to start learning style is not going around bombing (saturating an area with one's tag) the walls of the city or the insides of trains. Learning graffiti is a lot like learning how to play an instrument: start learning in private with someone you admire. Try going down to derelict train lots with someone who has been writing for a few years, and hit the place up. Have the writer point out what he or she does or does not like about your style, and have the writer suggest ways to improve it. Above all, it is important you listen to what they have to say; they know what they're talking about and have been at it far longer than you. Remember, everyone in the graffiti community was a toy (inexperienced writer) once, and anyone who says they weren't lies through their teeth. The writing community, like most communities, is one that places elders (those with many years of experience) first. Novices look to people with a year or two of writing experience, those people with a couple of years of training look up to those from the previous generation, and so it continues.

Style is a constantly evolving entity, and was around long before you, so don't be disappointed if you can't just go blasting out dazzling wildstyle lettering on your first try. If you're going to try paint, start with dead letters, simple block letters that aren't filled in (wasting paint for a one coat fill isn't worth it in an abandoned yard). Resist all urges to coerce style into your letters, it will not turn out the way you hoped. Rather, become proficient in doing the dead letters fast and accurately, and along the way you will see subtle nuances of your lettering technique that will eventually evolve into style. Remember that spray paint is not a substance that lends itself to lazy hands, so every move of the can should be quick and smooth or you will get drips and shaky lines. If you can, try to acquire some caps (nozzles) which either spray a really fat line (reducing the amount of paint that can drip) or release the paint at a slower rate.

Once you've gotten your lettering down, moving on to more complex forms of the art should be a snap. Never be afraid to experiment with letters, but bear in mind there's only so much one can do with a letter before it either becomes obfuscated by debris or turns into another letter. Also, magazines such as _Can Control_, _Hype_ and _Skills_ contain tons of photos for the aspiring writer. It is important to keep in mind that while learning others' style is a great learning tool, stealing their letter style (biting), is perhaps one of the worst offenses a writer can be charged with.

Remember, time isn't of the essence. The trains, buildings, and highways aren't going anywhere, so take the time necessary to evolve your style before going out and making a public display. Getting style isn't easy, and it takes many hours of arduous work to evolve into a presentable state. As the "Graffiti Bible" says, "There is no easy way to learn the complicated wildstyle, and no substitute for time. Rather, the best way to learn is through recapitulating the entire history of graffiti art, from the simple to the complex."

So, if you're serious about your artwork, take the time to show your devotion to all the writers around you. Plan out your art in a bible (sketchbook) ahead of time, and make sure you have the skills necessary to execute such a "piece" (short for masterpiece) when put in a time-constrained, dangerous situation. Work through the flaws and faults of your style with someone you respect and admire in the graffiti community, and above all, don't be afraid to be criticized. So, for all you real writers out there who will be around to pass the torch on to the next generation, keep practicing, and don't get caught.

meem@gnu.ai.mit.edu

kairos-one!LIQUID!spinal!CHAOS * integrity is essential * drink ink

[koper]

Thanks to "What Happened to the Letters?" For digging these up from sky5. If anyone else has some stuff saved from before this thread was wiped please send it to me.

sky5:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f182/rogan181/page2.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f182/rogan181/page1.jpg

[bouncingsoul]

Here's the one I made

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g314/poopdepants/IMG_0388.jpg

[koper]

Thanks to "Some Guy from NCI" for this one

SUPER RESCUE POST... TO THE RESCUE!


http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/2759/tsep11jc.gif
STEP 1: Do a basic letter.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9554/tsep20tz.gif
STEP 2: The vanishing point, Put this anywhere you want the 3d to go.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1640/tsep32yf.gif
STEP 3: Join up all the corners to the vanishing point.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8425/tsep43bi.gif
STEP 4: If you want to change the size of the 3d, just do parralel lines going across it (if you get what i mean) :unsure:

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/4628/tsep59om.jpg
STEP 5: Touch up any bits here and there and BadaBing BadaBoom...


You have yourself a third dimension (with perspective ;) )

[koper]

Thanks to "Kaser TBS" for finding some links to some of the tutorials from the old thread.

Here are some he found by Splitbomber and NICCSACC, Runci, Luster, Chroma 11820:

SplitBomber:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8212/tuteo4pn2.jpg


NICCSACC:
K...
http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/8870/picture351yz1.jpg
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/7994/picture36vw1.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3322/picture37sy4.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6429/picture38cm0.jpg
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/4669/picture39ql3.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7260/picture40bd0.jpg
http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/2235/picture41nf5.jpg


E...
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6980/picture42qp3.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8913/picture43ud4.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3512/picture442hn3.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8639/picture451td0.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/315/picture461an3.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6673/picture471si8.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4230/picture481yo0.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5212/picture492pm4.jpg

[koper]

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7249/picture62so6.jpg

[koper]

RUNCI:
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1135/letterhelpwo8tt7.jpg


Chroma 11820:
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/8692/jtutok1rn4.png


LUSTER:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9674/555553532jy7.jpg

[imported_Bes_one]

A really good guide that I found.
http://www.a2planet.com/guide/work/index-revc.html

[d_g]

I don't know how realiable this chart is but it's a start.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4426/faqcapsbj4.jpg

[east_van_tagger]

ok iknow its technically a tutorial but it is a good thing to know so here it is

color wheel click here! (http://www.cedmagic.com/featured/he-man/color-wheel.jpg)

its the all important color wheel

[Slushi]

This ones been floating around for a while.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/8960/xsimpleno0.jpg

[etch a sketch]

How to do a throw-up!!

I found it on google by the way..

1.Do your outline in the colour you plan to fill in.
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/2687/throwup1pn3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

2. Fill in the letters with a smooth back-and-forth motion.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7509/throwup2nd3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

3.Outline your letters in another colour.
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/503/throwup3yf3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

4.Add some drop shadow
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/3020/throwup4kn2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

5.Throw an additional outline around the whole thing in a third color to make it pop out...
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/7388/throwup5az4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The End
:lol: :lol: :lol:

[MainEvent]

http://www.a2planet.com/guide/work/index-revc.html - site that gives a huge overview on shit like techniques, reviews, and the law. worth a look.

http://www.at149st.com/books.html - list of good graf books you should check out

http://bombingscience.com/graffitiforum/in...?showtopic=1173 (http://bombingscience.com/graffitiforum/index.php?showtopic=1173) - kiwi mop guide for idiots

http://flexyourrights.org/ - guide to how to converse with police officers in different scenarios, good site.

[MainEvent]

from mr wiggles' site.

How To Turn A Tag Into A Piece

1- Take two pencils, and tape them together and make sure the points are even.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/d485e440.jpg

2- Hit a light tag on a blank paper (do not put to much pressure on the pencil so that the tag is very light), and make sure that the letters are positioned even (use guide lines if you have to.) You can make it a simple tag, or you can make it a more stylized tag. In this example I chose a more simple tag.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/d495e8e0.jpg

3- Now get a single and darker pencil (or just use more pressure), and start adding hook ups. try and connect a few letters. If you look at this example, you can see that i added pipes to connect letters (like the top of the "G" connecting to the "L"), arrows pointing in different directions (like the one on the top of the "W", chips like the one on the bottom corner of the "S". And be very creative in adding hookups, but don't over do it.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/d4a5e8d0.jpg

4- now get a black outliner ( fine point marker), let the ink dry, then erase the pencil.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/d4c5e8d0.jpg

5- Optional, you can add some shadow style 3D.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/d4d5e8d0.jpg


How to Construct A Basic Letter

1- Get a light pencil and pick a letter that you want to piece. now in constructing this letter we are gonna piece it together like building blocks. this is an example using the letter "B" and "S". Now pickin a starting point is purely up to the individual, i like to start with what i would consider a basic frame.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/ead5ec40.jpg

2- Now as you can see i am overlapping lines, sort of like a transparent style letter, but these lines will be erased after we ink the out lines in later.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/eaf5ec40.jpg

3- You can be alot more creative once you get used to this kind of letter building, but for now keep it simple.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/eb15ec40.jpg

4- After your done you can ink in the outer lines of the letter and then erase all the pencil lines, and thats it.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/eb35ec40.jpg

5- Also you can get more creative and add hookups and 3D to make the letter more funky.

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/eb45ec40.jpg


How to Construct Block 3D- http://www.mrwiggles.biz/how_to_do_block_3d.htm
How to Construct Basic Arrows- http://www.mrwiggles.biz/how_to_construct_arrows.htm
Blackbook Supplies Page- http://www.mrwiggles.biz/id214.htm

[[breakout]-azer]

taken from http://www.godisart.com



Introduction to Graffiti

This article is to help set the course for beginners that are having problems understanding how progression and letter structure works. Hundreds of kids that are new to graff come to toy blackbook forums every month and post pictures of ridiculous wildstyles they can't grasp yet. They are then critiqued by someone who tells them to "go simpler", which inevitably they reply "what do you mean by simpler?". Instead of re explaining this 1 million times, we can simply point them to this article, which will demonstrate proper letter structure, progression, and the importance of simple letters as a starting point.

Q=Why start with simple letters? I can do block letters!
Answer= No. You probably can't. At least not well.

Block letters provide an important foundation for those beginning. Why? It teaches you letter structure. Any good piecer should be able to rock a perfect block or simple letter. If you can't get the width, height, and flow down with that, how are you going to rock a wildstyle? Controlling what your pencil is doing is necessary if you want to get ill with letters, and nothing will teach you better than blocks and simples, even if you do find them boring, you still need to do them and you need to focus and do them well. Don't bust your name once and think you've got it down.


Author: Inko

Names
There aren't too many rules for choosing a name except BE ORIGINAL! The dumbest thing i see people do is take some common word and spell it properly! WTF??! To top it off they then add 'One' to the end to signify that they are the first. These people need their heads kicked in. For one, if you are choosing a word that is relatively common, and spelt properly you can be sure that there are plenty more toys out there writing that exact same thing "PureOne" FORGET IT! And what's worse? Some legend from back in the day probably had that name and rocked it with styles 100 fold what you've got in your pocket. So respect your history, if someone else has been writing your name with more style then drop it. Here's my rules of thumb for choosing a name: 1. Make up a word. 2. Misspell your word (ex: "Fawn" can be written fon, fonn, fohn, phon, phawn, etc...) 3. Don't claim to be One, Unless you are established writer you can forget about being the first.
And how could i forget lots of people get names passed on to them, but if that is you then you are likely passing over this bit.

Letter Forms
As has been said to you all time and time again Block Letters are your best friend when you begin writing. Block letters reinforce fundamental aspects of letter styles in your mind. Most people take their knowledge of letter forms for granted when they start writing, hence all those ridiculous "wild styles" which pwn us 4ll 3v3ryd4y. You've got to learn which aspects of a letter are required in order for it to be legible and proper. That's where block letters come in. Block letters ARE those fundamental pieces of letters which are needed in order for them to be legible. My advice is that you look at your keyboard, and just draw the letters over and over. over and over and over and over and over. I'm not talking like 5/6 times, i'm talking like 100/200 times. A huge thing to keep an eye on is letter proportion, make sure your vertical lines are all the same width, your horizontal lines all the same width, and your diagonal lines all the same width. Of course this rule does have lots of fluctuation once you get better, but for the time this is key, otherwise your letters will lose that legibility. And despite what you think about how insanely dope crazy illegible wildstyles are, you still need to be able to read your graffiti. Even those crazy illegible wildstyles are legible to the trained eye. Why? because they put emphasis on those bits of letters that make them legible.
Anyway once you've mastered simple font like block letters start playing with aspects of it: Try leaning them all one direction. Try making some smaller and some bigger, keep it patterned, not random. Try bending them all in the middle. Try weighting them all higher or lower using middle pieces (like the middle of an E). Try forming them into a shape. Hopefully by this time you have got a decent handstyle developed, try making your pieces include some interesting components of your handstyle lettering, my handstyle has strongly influenced my piecing style.
Stay the flip away from extensions. Extensions will come to you once you know you are a good enough writer. Eventually you will just begin to see where letters can have add-ons without compromising their shape.

3D
Not much can be said about 3d that hasn't already in this thread. There's a few different ways you can pop your letters out, 3d is one, drop shadow is another, a simple keyline/forcefield does it as well (although they compliment a 3d/drop shadowed piece even more). 3D can be done directionally, in any direction you please, or it can be done in perspectives. I don't really understand them fully, i just kind of do them. One thing i always keep in mind when doing my 3D is that i draw out my outline, stand back and say "Which way should it point?" It's all about direction because graffiti is all about flow/movement/directing the audiences eyes. So make the direction of your 3d compliment the flow/movement of your piece.

Colors
I find pretty much most people are subjective with their color choices. There are some good standards like black/white, silver/black, etc... But it all depends on what you want to do and what colors you feel like using. I find a good thing to remember is to do a light outline if I am using a dark fill, and vice versa. This way your letters don't get lost into your color. Of course there are ways around this, like using a dark fill & dark outline, but light inline. But you will learn those type of things as you progress. I usually like to contrast my 3d pretty hard color-wise with my fill, but that is just me, and just reinforces what i said about it being subjective, because some people probably think that looks ridiculous.

[SweetRevenge]

USE THIS TO HELP YOU WITH COLORS VERY DOPE!!!!!1111one
Color Scheme
http://www.steeldolphin.com/color_scheme.html
--------------------
pencil-guides
http://monologues.co.uk/Portraits/BlendShade.htm
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/23740114/
Marker-Guides
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/23560194/
http://www.deviantart.com/view/19597331/
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/29260366/

[Kayone707]

i just did this quickie for someone who couldnt read my P
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3109/spa0455ru1.jpg
thought id post it here too

[MUSASHI]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e343/5_busharu/coloringtutorial.jpg

see what direction the bad one takes? I see more of this than I care to and from alot of advanced cats too,this is what happens when one becomes impatient,it's a sign of undisciplined behavior.

the next one which is good is better than bad and you can get a cool effect sometimes by using this technique.

the third one which is better you make your strokes the whole length of the section you are coloring being careful not to overlap the wet ink onto the dry ink if at all possible,this takes patients ,a steady hand and discipline.

the fourth one which is the best requires using the principles of the third technique but going over the section at a 90 degree angle to achieve that deep rich color.


I'll keep editing this as I think of different ways to color on paper and different mediums.

[South-Pole]

ALWAYS USE BARS TO MAKE LETTERS ALWAYS


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/HSL/Lol/samy3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/HSL/Sauce%20L/samy3.jpg

[yakrian]

The Following Was Stolen From Pure-Graff. Mods: If you don't want it on here, feel free to delete it.

This is an issue that isnt stressed enough. This thread is mainly for people who havent painted in yards before or have and dont know what they are doing. All the heads can add some tips and information in this thread that will be helpfull, all others should read up.

NUMBER 1-Dont get seen! This should be a no-brainer for anybody who paints right. But I still go down to the local yard here and see kids painting in there from the road just walking around bombing the shit out of everything. If you paint in a yard make sure that nobody sees you, and this goes from workers, people who live in that area and local businesses to hero joe who walks by and hates graffiti. The less you are seen the less heat get sput on the yard because nobody knows that painting is going on there and they will leave the security pretty slack.

NUMBER 2-Leave the numbers! every train has to legaly have a set of numbers on it. This includes stuff such as the weight limits and capacity of the freight. They will usually be in a box at one of the ends of the car. When you paint over them the rail company has to take that car off of hte tracks to get those numbers restampes back on it. The cost isnt cheap and this will make rail security tight. There is usually always room to paint around the numbers. Dont take cardboard and tape to cover them up, this just creats more of a mess that youll have to take out of the yard later.

NUMBER 3-Clean up your mess! Do not leave your mess in the yard. This is a simple thing that will keep your yard chill. Dont just throw you can a few feet into the bushes or leave them around the freights, just throw it in your bag or stuff in under your shirt and get rid of it away from the yard. Dont leave tips around either, or paint spilled on rocks. If this happens then kick the dirt up to hide the paint. The idea is to make it look like the painting of the particular freights didnt go on on that yard. Dont test your paint on plants or gravel or the tracks. If you must, test your paint on an unrelated piece of the car.

NUMBER 4-Dont get retarted! When you paint in a yard dont go ape-shit and start painting every train. Workers will reconize this and will have to report it. Dont paint more than two freights in a line and make sure that they are spaced out. The same art on two freights side by side is a dead give in that the art was done there because the frieghts get switched up and mixed around when they come into the yard. Also when you paint dont follow any routines, workers will catch on. If you paint the same cars in the same lines, the workers who are out there everyday will begon to notice and whether they like it or not, they will have to report it.

NUMBER 5-Observe! When you go to a yard that you havent been to before and want to paint, observe. Go there for a bit before you even consider bringing paint, and look for things like ways in and out without getting seen. Also learn what times they do the switch-ups at. This will help you learn whats going on so you can stay safe in the yard from teh freights and getting caught by workers.

-und busboy-

you do what you want

[[breakout]-azer]

So, for the first tutorial I thought it would be best to put up a basic stencil cutting tutorial for those still unsure about the basic process. Keep in mind that this is by no means the only way for you to do this, just the most effecient way I have found so far.

1. Recon

Generally, the application and use of your stencil will dictate what materials will be most suitable. For example, for indoor work on walls or doors when you have all the time you need, using adhesive contact may be used as it is easy to cut and prevents any 'underspray' from occuring as it is stuck completely flat against the surface (thus not needing tape or anyone to hold the stencil too). However, for work on the streets when time and speed are all important you will need to cut your stencil out of something more durable, such as a medium weight cardboard which can just be held against the wall and sprayed through quickly. Another good technique is to print out or photocopy your stencil design and have it laminated. This will still be quite easy to cut and they hold their shape surprisingly well.


2. Construction

Once you know where you will be doing your stencil and you have an idea in mind, you need to begin constructing your image either on paper or on the computer. When constructing your image it is important to remember the fundamentals of a basic stencil, you cannot have any enclosed white spaces or 'islands' inside any black areas (because essentialy these black areas are what you will be cutting out).


3. Fortification

Now once you have your image on paper you can either glue it on to some thicker cardboard with spray adhesive to make it more durable, or get your image laminated which will serve the same purpose. What you will also find that after a number of sprays the stencil will hardern as the paint layers dry also strengthening your stencil.


4. Cutting

There are a number of things that can be used to cut out your stencil. Stanley knives, boxcutters, razor blades and scissors can all be used, but in my experience the trusty exacto knife is the most reliable and the best for achieving fine details You hold these knives much like a pencil at an angle of about 50 degrees, and always be careful as most blades for these knives are extremely sharp. Also be sure to have adequate protection underneath your stencil to avoid damaging whatever your cutting on.


5. The Great Moment

Once you have finished cutting out all the details of your stencil you are ready for its application. Traditionally with most street based stencils spray paint has been used as a quick and economical means to apply the image to street walls. Try and use a quality matte paint as it will last much longer and avoids any unwanted glare and reflections on your stencil that can occur from using gloss based paints. When applying your stencil to the wall or wherever you are going to spray it, make sure it is as flat against the surface as possible to avoid underspray and keep your lines crisp.


Finally, try and remember that the best and most interesting works come about when the image and its placement on the streets play together, with the architecture and image communicating as one.

[N:Craze]

Really good color site

http://kuler.adobe.com/

[Sheek]

Borowed from Totse.com
Enjoy.


An Introduction to Graffiti
by cross-one
If you want to do graffiti and are afraid to break the law please stop reading this now. Legal graffiti is an oxymoron. A scourge. Graffiti is not a form of art, it is not made for MTV, the back of your backpack, t shirts or impressing chicks. It's a community, a hobby, a lifestyle, a brotherhood. It's a place people exist and live, please do not shit in our house, respect our rules and those who have come before you.

Learn to tag first, and to learn to tag you need to learn to read it. Ride the buses and all that, look for it when you're walking around. Then you need to emulate it.

It takes about 2 years of nonstop everyday filling all your notebooks with tags until you can even think about not being a toy. Toy is tagger slang for someone who doesn't know shit, or a poser. We also don't call ourselves taggers, we call ourselves writers.

And before you ask yes you need to learn to tag before you can do those insane artistic murals, called pieces. Tag first, baby steps, thats all there is to it.

It'll help a lot if you can get someone to show you. A lot of people think that writers are like gangsters, but I've experienced nothing but a tight community with a few exceptions. Generally nice people. Graffiti came from hip hop not rap, it also has strong punk roots.

Just keep on "bookworming", buy some magazines from your local skateshop, hip hop store or wherever and eventually writers will find you. So long as you realize you don't know shit and are respectful they won't mind helping you out a bit.

You'll need something to write too, a name. Don't choose something toy like "death" or "stoner-dude". In general 3 letter names are reserved for crews (groups of people who write together, like awr [angels will rise]). You want something cool like shok, skuf, saber or zephyr. A lot of times people get there names given to them by older writers. don't choose something too long either, and if you don't like it don't be afraid to change to something else till you find something that fits.

Oh yeah its also considered impolite or disrespectful to ask someone what they write. Respect is also everything in graffiti, but remember RESPECT IS EARNED NOT GIVEN.

Anywho after two years you can start actually "getting up" (deface property). You need streakers, or paint sticks (art stores), or paint pens (pens with a little spraypaint ball inside them) or really big markers like magnums or pilots. www.beatbreaks.com is a good site (look under art supplies).

I don't recommend scribing, or carving windows. You can do it with any old rock, a chip from a spark plug's ceramic or a scribe from a glass store but most police take pictures of every glass tag, so if you get caught you can get put away for a long ass time (very expensive to replace a glass window).

Then theres spraypaint. ACE cans and those cheap ones have caps on them that make graffiti impossible. OSH cans are the best of the worse, they'll do in a fix because there cheap but have a tendency to fuck up and have shitty colors, except for OSH silver which looks sick.

Krylon and Rusto are the good stuff, Rusto colors look different from Krylon (make sure it says "flat"), you learn to recognize the difference and get a preference after a while.

There's also Montana and Beltone, which are designed for graffiti, but expensive. Plus you can rack (steal) Krylon, Rusto and OSH cans. But you also need caps, if you don't live near a graff friendly store then just buy a hundred or so off of the Internet (they're cheap wholesale, as in ~10 bucks for a hundred).

Normal caps (stock) usually spray out too much paint and therefor drip (very bad). Fat caps spread out the paint and make a big line, good for fills and throwups. You can make fat caps look neat and such by going really fast with them. Stock caps can also be used though, you just need to experiment with speed and how close you hold it to the wall. ironically using stock caps is one of the best ways to get can control.

Outlines make less come out and are good for anything (Beltone and Montana come with them). Rusto caps have a dot in them and are good for fills, or anything else. The difference between American and German caps is merely a matter of preference, though I like Americans more myself.

Throwups are basically not very complicated pieces or bubble letters, traditionally black and white. You can do them fast and if you're good you can do them with style (style is everything). If you're going to do a throwup make sure you fill it, because you're a toy if you don't. Oh yeah going out and doing throwups all over is called bombing.

Pieces are murals, you'll learn to develop your own style through practice. You need to practice a lot and get can control too like on a shed in your friends back yard or something. You should "cut" your lines, move fast with precision, calm, no thoughts running through your mind. Straight neat lines are much harder then they look. The secret to making a piece burn though is shading, gradients and detail.

Characters are also fun to do, you just draw someone with really extreme features. Usually start with a circle, a line where the eyes and nose are going to be, then draw the nose, the eyes, the ears, the jaw n like that, so that you're like going in a circle filling in the person's detail. Learn to use lots of shading and take your time, it helps a lot. Think of everything in 3D not 2D with shading. The nice thing about graffiti is it gives you art, design, fighting, quick thinking and running skills that transfer to other things.

Which brings us to our next point, the police. In short fuck em. if you go out solo or just one other person, sober, and aren't a fucking moron you wont get caught. keep your eyes open, and if you see the police, or some off duty fireman who wants to be a hero run. run and don't stop, run to a place cars cant get to like train tracks and run until your veins pump battery acid, then run some more. i've had had 6 cops chasing after me for half a night. hop some fences, stash anything that could used against you and keep running.

we rarely get caught, thats why police hate us so much.

Also if you get good and want to go bust a sick piece (or look at some) without worrying about the police you need to learn the spots, like underground tunnels, huge walls in the middle of nowhere. Then theres layups, where they store the trains at. Thats a whole 'nother side of graffiti (I'm a street bomber myself, though i've hit up the trains a few times).

So lastly i give you some basic rules graffiti, do not break them.


DO NOT BITE THE HAND THAT FEEDS! Biting is copying someones style, the way they write there letters, something like that. You know exactly when you're doing it, so don't. You'll seriously get fucked up bad if you do, even if its out of a magazine or something on the Internet (its a close community, word gets around).
Respect those who have come before you, learn the history
Do not ex other peoples tags, even if they ex'd you first, this is for gang bangers and toys who start shit because they have no style. "If you have beef eat a pork chop."
Do not tag tombstones, peoples houses (fences are fair game), memorials, or cars (except police cars, U-Haul trucks, semis and abandoned cars).
Throw ups go over tags, pieces go over throw ups. this is how it is, don't cry about it.

If you're a pussy graff will motivate you to get out there, you'll meet cool people and see some weird shit. So go buy a copy of the "wild style" video, check out all the sites on graffiti.org and read the few good posts on puregraffiti.com and bombingscience.com.

Also don't ever put crowns or any of that shit above your tags or pieces, its called the mark of the toy for a reason.

cross-one AT ziplip DOT com

[NICCSACC]

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3464767503024735874

made a video tutorial for the letter "E"... check it out!!!

[Kayone707]

http://www.prismacolor.com/sanford/consume...lash=marker.swf (http://www.prismacolor.com/sanford/consumer/prismacolor/mystudio/flashPopup.jhtml?flash=marker.swf)
how to blend+use prisma markers/color pencils

[Bazer]

i know this is a tutorial only thread but i dont know where else to put this link.
http://www.urbandictionary.com/

alot of you come here and dont know what alot of things mean. the url says it itself how it can help you.

[NICCSACC]

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3668557301819365017

[east_van_tagger]

i found this site it has some good stuff on it like for example one i havent seen here yet a graff writers bible and tons more click here (http://www.puregraffiti.com/graffiti-space/forumdisplay.php?f=35) :D hope it helps

[ROYALE]

Tutorial on putting a drop shadow on your piece, because I'm bored. If you've got a drop shadow on your piece it's going to look like its separete from the wall and kind of floating off of it, if it's done right. I've seen people try to do this and it looks like they used a fat cap to put a huge line around their shit and they ruined it.

Get your shit together and put your outline on.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/SHADOW1.jpg

Spray your shadow. Test out your paint, spraying it from far back on some other place so that you don't put it on too thick. Go to it and spray at an angle so you don't get overspray in your fill. Make sure you get every part where it would be visable, otherwise that's stupid.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/SHADOW2.jpg

Doesn't look too good because the black is against your outline, which is probably black too. Put your forcefeild on to finish it off. Done. This doesn't look like it's floating too much becuase I only painted a corner, if you could see the other corner on it like a square (and it was done with effort put into it) it would give you more of that effect.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/SHADOW3.jpg

[ROYALE]

Cutting lines tutorial.

Again done with scrap cans, used tips, and my crappy can control. If you want sharp edges in your piece you'll have to cut lines. If you cut every little edge your probably going to spend forever, but if you want that razor sharp point here and there it will bring your piece one step up.

First, don't use a shitty background like this. I tried to water down paint to make it last longer.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_0.jpg

Do your outline and fill. I'm using a random shape for this with an inner and outer corner. Notice how the inner corner is a sharp edge and the outer corner isn't.
That's because your tip sprays a circle, not a pinpoint line. The way you made the sharp corner on the inside corner is the way you cut any line, overlapping. Your paint will have to cover.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_2.jpg

For the fun of it i'll throw in a fade.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_3.jpg

Do your outline, prefferably not with an almost empty, spurty, shit can. Doesn't matter because these line's are getting cut though.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_4.jpg

Throwing in an inline with the primary fill color. This is also cutting one side of the black line, notice how its a bit sharper.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_5.jpg

The halo was put on and some bubbles added. I overlapped the corner of the green into the black a bit, then went over that with black creating the sharp corner in the halo. Oops, went back into the blue. Doesn't matter, I'll cut that shit.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_6.jpg

Cut that line, and used some white to fix the shitty overspray on the halo. If my background was white, and not transparent, showing the paint underneith, it would look a lot more solid.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_7.jpg

Need to put on that bottom part of the halo. Now the black line is nice and sharp on that outer corner.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/Conor720/cutut_8.jpg

Used white to cut the green, giving a sharp halo. Since my background is white and I have white paint I can do that. If your using a colored base, wich you probably will, your not going to be able to do this without some magical matching paint, or cutting the line with the fucking roller. You'll need can control to put a good halo on your piece that's got a nice edge, practicing cutting lines will help you with this.


There you have it, a half-assed line cutting tutorial.

[imported_Bes_one]

A site by mr wiggles.

http://www.learngraffiti.net/index.htm

[Sumoe]

Prismacolor shading, people been asking me how so...

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/6195/dsc0811ua0.jpg

usually I use 4 colors, a dark (red) a light (yellow) and two in between (oranges)...

1st lay down the darkest color in upward strokes...like so...
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/6135/dsc0812ib0.jpg

next lay down the second color (darker orange) in the same strokes...
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4926/dsc0814nj0.jpg

repeat with third color...
http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/8796/dsc0817ca3.jpg

and the fourth...
http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/3447/dsc0820sf3.jpg

http://img486.imageshack.us/img486/2076/dsc0822jy7.jpg
YOU DONE BITCHES...the trick is to do this fast when the ink is still wet, it helps blend the colors, other than that it's not rocket science, I just did this cause I was bored...

[-ShAmEE-]

http://www.mrwiggles.biz/116e900b0.jpg

*edit by SUMOE

DON'T BITE THESE, THEY'RE JUST FOR GUIDANCE

[Mr Tasty]

a good tip for toys ....i did this when i started out....draw each letter of ur tag seperatly....cut them out....and place them together to get a better flow...u can move them around and turn them at angles till its all fitting perfectly...and if u cant make it fit perfectly...u can learn from ur cut outs wat u need to do to make it flow good..... u can do it on photoshop too.......once ur letters are placed and ur sketch is good...just draw from the cutouts.....i see alot of ppl with dope letters but they look shit cos thers no flow..or letters are placed out wrong....

[DeproOne]

I found something that really helps me. i write my tag name in my regular hand writing like 20 times a gay and bend it around, still in regular, 10 times. then write the bent one you like best bigger and number your strokes (like the first line u make is 1, second is 2, etc.) and draw from the numbers

[*LoST*]

The "shitty" tutorial video by Hepos of 666. Helped me a lot...i added music to it hepos, sorry if you don't like the song, my music library wasn't as big at the time. Its better than complete silence though. Click the link and you can watch it, or download it. Your welcome toyz :D

graffiti_tutorial_by_hepos_666.wmv - 46.39MB (http://www.zshare.net/video/graffiti_tutorial_by_hepos_666-wmv.html)

[Kayone707]

Originally posted by *LoST*@May 11 2007, 05:17 AM
The "shitty" tutorial video by Hepos of 666. Helped me a lot...i added music to it hepos, sorry if you don't like the song, my music library wasn't as big at the time. Its better than complete silence though. Click the link and you can watch it, or download it. Your welcome toyz :D

graffiti_tutorial_by_hepos_666.wmv - 46.39MB (http://www.zshare.net/video/graffiti_tutorial_by_hepos_666-wmv.html)
wow, good job on the music choice, thanks man.

heres another one i did a month or two back. for some reason photobucket fucks up the video quality. my bad
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/beans594/th_hepotut3.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/beans594/?action=view&current=hepotut3.flv)

[alive]

Tutorials only//Post deleted

everywhere but the montana website apparently. . . . . .
what a surprise that its there.


wow, good job on the music choice, thanks man.

heres another one i did a month or two back. for some reason photobucket fucks up the video quality. my bad
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/beans594/th_hepotut3.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/beans594/?action=view&current=hepotut3.flv)

<3 makes it look easy.

not a tutorial.


made some ish.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/DannyHartu/Picture212.jpg

thsoe are basic? i never seen a keyboard font that looked like that

u know that enema is were they stick a tube up ur ass and clean ur ass out.

p.s my moms a nurse thats how i found out.

Just thought I'd post a list of names that are played out(if you have any others please contribute)

Faze/Phaze
Sin/Sinn
Chaos/Kaos
Fame
King

That's all I can think of for now.

It's not like you cannot have these names no matter what,if you like them have them,but you might get some bad looks if you ever reveal your name to another more experienced writer.

REK
SCOPE are played to, i had a whole list aa second ago but i just got a mental blank

Sen is madd overused as well

I dont know if this is a sin to say. but one thing I like to do is bite people shit. I know its like the cardinal sin on here but it really helps to try to imitate people. you can get a feel for how they do letters and you can figure out what works for you. obviously dont go painting bit letters and things but when your messing around or are having a block just look at peoples stuff and if you see something you like try to imitate it. then develope it.

can someone can make me a ZICE PLEASE !!

im gonna try to do it later ^^

i got a toy question bout caps. what caps come stock on the montana paint when you order from bombingscience?

none, usualy at graff shops they let you select 1

http://www.ehow.com/how_2098120_do-graffiti-throwie.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_2098102_draw-graffiti-letters.html


http://www.ehow.com/how_2098120_do-graffiti-throwie.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_2098102_draw-graffiti-letters.html

step 5: Run.

lmao

[Wutchoogonnadoo?]

a whack tutorial on flow....

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z248/amkah/lastscan-7.jpg

...was done at 1am for my man Flaw..
supposed to show hoe bars flow etc.
looks shitty..
Anways..wanted to contribute to this thread..

and D_g I LOVE YOU FOR POSTING THAT MTN CAP SYSTEM CHART...I WAS LOOKING EVERYWHERE !:D

[Fube]

found this, figured id share.

http://www.slanted.de/images/glance158ip.jpg

[Edward"Sezer"Hands]

made some ish.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/DannyHartu/Picture212.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/DannyHartu/Picture213.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/DannyHartu/Picture215.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/DannyHartu/Picture216.jpg

[amk]

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z248/amkah/32dfsaas.jpg

[knewsince.]

the future of graffiti dvd
http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=4431367901031258697&q=the+future+of+graffiti

[Captain]

bars can and should be warped to acheive flow. lots of people are forgetting this lately.

http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/7200/varha2.jpg

[d_g]

LETTER STRUCTURE, USING BARS AND FLOW.

Three of the main things heard here in the toy forum are 'work on letter structure', 'use bars to construct letters' and 'it doesn't flow'.

There are also three obvious questions in response to these statements.

I'll give some tips on why to use bars, what letter structure is and what is flow using some well known fonts.


USING BARS TO CONSTRUCT LETTERS

This is the basis to creating decent letters for the majority of writers at all skill levels, it helps create a flow within the letter and to provide correct structure. The best way to think of what a bar is and how it works is a fattened pen stroke that is drawn as a box.

I will show this using the sans serif font, impact, as the letters are simple and explain bars well. I would also recommend this font or similar for people starting out to aid learning letter structure.

All basic letters are constructed from similarily lengthed bars, there will be up to four bars as in the letter 'E' and one bar for letters such as 'S' or 'C'.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4994/pic06ymn8.jpg
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1704/pic07wb3.jpg

Two letters shown as the normal print, the dissected bars that form the letter and how lines should be drawn to form the letter best (note how the bars overlap, this helps create a more 'even' looking letter).


LETTER STRUCTURE

Letter structure is basically that, how the letter is structured to make it that specific letter. Letters are common things in our lives and are often overlooked as we perceive them as being simple. In a

lot of cases they can be but there are times that an extension/add-on or bar is used that throws the whole letter structure off. While it is often thought by people who are new to graffiti that it should be

unreadable it is known that a good writer should have good letter strucutre.

Example 1:
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/9198/pic01cx3.jpg

Where does this letter stop becoming an 'n' and become an 'h'? A common mistake made by people just starting with letters, using the wrong length bar in the wrong place can completly change the structure of a letter.

Example 2:

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/4354/pic02lj3.jpg

Placing some letters too close together will create a new letter or be confusing. Here a 'c' and 'l' are shown coming closer and closer together eventually becoming the letter 'd'.

Example 3:

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8433/pic03sc0.jpg

While the letters 'H', 'A' and 'N' are completely different in structure not much has to be changed to make a one look like the other.


http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4284/pic04jz4.jpg

Even though the final modified letter is crude compared to the original it shows that wrongly angled bars can be interpreted in a way not intentioned by the writer.


FLOW

Flow is often seen as the most important aspect within a piece or a letter. Flow can mean different things depending on who one talks to.

To me there are three types of flow; flow within a letter, flow within a piece and overall flow.

Flow within a letter

The best way to achieve this is by using bars. This is where learning bars helps you further down the track.

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/4832/pic08copyzj8.jpg

It may not be obvious in the first two 'H's shown but the flow of the letter on the right is thrown off simply because a bar has been incorrectly used. The 'H' on the left uses the correct method of one

bar/stroke for it's left leg. The 'H' on the right hasn't used bars so it appears that the left leg is made of two bars instead of one.

Flow within a piece

The letters within the piece whould have flow as well. They should all appear to be letters from the same type set, not a mix of different styled letters. It would disrupt the flow if all your letters were

rounded except for one that was squared. The letters should have even spacing between them, not some close and then some far apart. The example below shows an extreme case using standard fonts.

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9518/pic09be8.jpg
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4868/pic10xr4.jpg

Overall flow

To me this is like, to use a cliche term, the 'X-Factor'. Do all the colours come together well, does the 3D suit, does the piece sit nicely on it's canvas? All the little things that bring everything

together.


Anyway, graffiti is like everything, the rules can be bent and broken but the guidelines above are a good place to get started and help with some of the common crits given on the toy forums.

-Kaset.

[-ShAmEE-]

props up there. time well taken.

toys. that feel they are tryin to become better yet. find them selves getttin now where.

see the thing is to a writer they have to have there own imput to there letters. see anyone can have simple letters that have no flow/ no imput.
your imput is ur style, bends the bars of your letters wont get are style shinning, a good way to achieve flow would be to make our letters two things or one.
for example mabey u might want your letters to have curves and 3d. or your are the type of person the wants to have simpleish letters alittle abit developed but with funky fills. i depened on you. u start trying to achieve your goals on how u want ur letters to look then your will be able to make your letters style.

now your one step closer to make your own unique style and this will also help your flow, because your style should be tell that person it is you. for example people will go i cant make out the letters but that style looks like peeta's (sick artist look him up, he form italy)

flow.

flow is that way you make you letters go from one to another, using conextion or addons. but for people who find it harder to make the addons and conextions. the best way to make ur letters flow is to make your overall look on the whole image looks dope. and postion each letter to each other the best way possible. you can also make your letters go from big to small or small to big.

[Slushi]

Im sick of people doing whack bars.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z85/SluseFA/untitled.jpg

Notice the actual geometric shapes on the left one.

[sKeeLo]

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/5263/1282860ri4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

a step by step for the letter M . . . this is how i would draw it up bar by bar . . . feeel free to bite/copy/abuse it if u need to . .

[-ShAmEE-]

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u86/ShAm33/letter.jpg

this maybe my graphics design shit, but the same principle,
when doin a blockbuster, or just plain simple. look at the lines they flow through each letter makes each one flow with each other.

[revid!]

did this in schoo
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/1082/cimg0104yr0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/7738/cimg0105kh9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3194/cimg0106fl3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/212/cimg0107qs8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[fEris]

http://people.uleth.ca/~headsofhiphop/graffititips.pdf

This "tutorial" makes one good point about dead space. When the letters don't flow together, you get these gaps between the letters that don't go with the flow of the letters and simple looks like letters arranged next to each other. Gotta put more thought into arranging letters than just the letters themselves.
In what I'll refer to as "formal" art, this dead space is referred to as negative space. Negative space is the space between objects or parts of an object, or around it.

Negative space can make or break a piece. It's a seemingly subtle aspect to any type of art, but can be very powerful when the artist takes advantage of it.

[Ceen]

oo i gues imma change it to "keelo"

[C3ZR ONE]

.


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad:!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DO NOT POST ANYTHING OTHER THAN TUTORIALS IN HERE OR I WILL SUSPEND YOUR ACCOUNT AND EDIT GAY PORN INTO YOUR SIG.

THIS THREAD IS FOR TUTORIALS SO KIDS CAN LEARN SOMETHING AND NOTHING ELSE. THANK YOU DILLHOLES- CEZR


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



.

[hammer_time]

ok so i noticed there is the standard keeping spots chill, freight speech a page back, i feel that safety is a paramount issue, if ive asked this question once ive asked it a thousand times, what do you think will blow a yard more? a guy chasing a kid out who, chances are, he didnt actually see writing, or a 911 call from the yard cuz your boy just saw your leg or arm severed from your body?

this first bit is called critcal mass(stolen from 12oz, original author, cracked ass) its a combo chillness/safety/attitude shpeil i wish that everyone who starts to paint trains reads it, because it seems people who didnt learn, refuse to change their attitudes

Graffiti itself to many who do it is a reckless, rampaging "fuck you" to anyone watching or listening, so the idea of using foresight and intelligence to make life easier for yourself or others is a foreign one. Make no mistake, these are the good old days of freight graffiti, the years everyone in the game will remember most fondly: for their chillness, the names, the styles, the feeling of being part of the next big wave of rolling canvases since the suppression of the NYC subways. Did anyone doing trains in 1980 suspect they had less than ten years till the scene died down to almost nothing?
What did it take to kill the New York subways? A bunch of factors converged. A couple of mayors harping on "quality of life" issues. Public ignorance of how the scene worked was a bigger factor than anybody gives it credit for, in my opinion. The public made no distinction between piecers with a vision, like Dondi, and gangs whose thing was busting out subway windows and fucking with passengers. They were all lumped together as one big "bad element", and dealt with by people with that mentality.
What will it take to kill the freight scene? "Critical mass", a bunch of factors converging, some of them seemingly unrelated. First of all, it will take years, although I think we have less of those than everyone else thinks. Also, it will be a death by degrees - it's not that there will be a day when nothing will run, it will just be harder to get over, and harder to find a spot where you have time to do more than small stuff.
Everything plays a role in achieving critical mass. Painting over numbers on freights. Bombing engines. Leaving cans for workers to trip over. Increased general security after 9/11, especially regarding chemical/hazmat shipments and bulletins to workers to be alert for suspicious persons. Innovations in trespasser detection technology, and a drop in price in this equipment, such that yards get much harder to work with. Continuing capitalist philosophy that property is worth more than people ensures the hiring of more security personnel and the building of more fences, lights, cameras, etc. at layups as well as yards. Pissed off railfans forming watch groups in league with the railroad companies themselves, for a more "community policing" approach to dealing with writers, burglars, and random vandals and trespassers (who, again, are often lumped together as all the same in the eyes of the property owners). Independent companies offering fast turnaround and low cost on buffing/restamping painted cars (this is already happening).
The swing vote will be railroad workers when it comes to the life or death of the scene. They are the guys most likely to discover writers or their spots, and they have the power to let it slide or report it and put heat on the spot and the scene. Being nice to workers (in ways that count) is the number one thing any writer can do to delay critical mass. That means staying off the numbers, not painting engines or other RR equipment besides the freight cars, and disposing of your empty cans elsewhere. The empty cans issue is not a "don't litter" thing - it's a safety issue. Workers have to run alongside moving trains and throw a lever to uncouple cars, or mount and dismount moving trains, and they don't need to be landing on round, slippery cans.
Every small thing you do that you hear freight heads advising against contributes a little bit toward critical mass. I hear all kinds of excuses. "Well yards out here are already burnt so why not hit engines." You might not notice a difference in security in your area. But you are having your effect. Workers, railfans, management, internet toys are all paying attention. If one worker gets killed tripping over a paint can and falling under a train, that one incident will do a lot of damage, create a lot of anger. If enough company logos on engines disappear beneath pieces, railfans will start banding together with RRs to police spots better. Toys come on the Net and see stupid behavior and copy it, heating up more and more spots from the city to the cuts. They might also pay too little attention to yard/train safety and get killed trying to paint, which could spark some reporter doing a "spotlight" story on kids and freight painting that gets play. (I'm still waiting for a movie or book to drop which blows up the scene by portraying it fictionally.) All of this shit contributes to critical mass.
I think some heads secretly want the scene to be much harder in a few years, so they can enjoy their "back in the day" king status, like the subway kings can now. Others, like me, would rather spread the word about how to make it last longer. I'm not one to tell people what to do without offering logical reasons - "you shouldn't hit engines or go over numbers" - I'd rather make people aware of the consequences, and let them make their own decisions. I know I'll do what I can to delay critical mass. I hope others can see their own role and make an informed decision about how to handle their spots and situations.

[hammer_time]

Beyond keeping spots chill..
SAFETY
i would like to post some safety tips that are very important alot of this is quoted from a combination of other posts but is really good stuff to know...


HUMPING. No, not that kind. In the fr8 world humping is a process used to break up trains and sort, or "classify", the individual cars and get them to the right tracks in a yard. Basically, the train is driven backwards a short distance, and they slam on the brakes. At the same moment a brakeman jogs alongside the moving train and throws a lever that uncouples a car or group of cars at the end of the train. These cars fly off on their own momentum down the track that has been selected for them, with no brakes, and they don't stop till they run out of inertia, or until they hit other cars parked on that line (the BOOM!!! sound you may hear from your local yard). Freight cars can safely collide at 5mph or less, they just lock onto each other at the coupler; sometimes a crew that's in a hurry to hump off a train will send them faster than 5mph, though.
This raises several safety issues: One, a train that is backing up, or cars that have been humped off, can run you down without you ever hearing an engine. In a dark or foggy yard, those drifting cars (called "ramblers") can go a surprising distance, and sometimes are very quiet despite their size, so they can sneak up on you. The danger is magnified if you are standing in a noisy spot (near another locomotive, or one of those reefer cars with the loud compressor running all the time, or anything else) that could mask the sound of an approaching rambler.
Two, you might be on or painting a car that gets hit by a line of ramblers. It will slam them into motion suddenly. If you're climbing on a car and don't have a good handgrip, you could become the next photo at www.deadtrainbums.com . When ramblers hit a motionless line, it's like a cueball hitting another ball in pool: the force gets transferred to the object ball, and when you're talking forty tons per car that translates into some serious slamming power even at low speeds.
So in general: assume EVERY track is live, that something may come at any time. NEVER climb underneath a freight car for any reason. If you have to cross a line, assume it could slam into motion any second. Don't climb over the coupler, cross using the handy ladders and walkways at the ends of most cars. If the car you want to cross doesn't have a walkway on the back, cross somewhere else. Don't stand in between cars in a line, or less than twenty feet from the last car in a line. Basically, don't stand ANYWHERE you could be hit if ALL the trains around you started moving at the same time. Don't climb onto the tops of railcars. Don't attempt a big project involving ladders, like an e2e or wholecar, until you are a veteran of A) yards in general and the particular spot you want to try something ambitious at (and those projects are best reserved for chill, lonely layups, not yards).
A lot of this sounds pretty anal. You might already have prowled yards not knowing any of this and still not had a problem. The tricky thing is, 9 out of 10 times none of this shit will happen, but if you spend enough time in yards you will personally experience all of these things, and that 1 out of 10 can be fatal if you didn't know in advance. You can also get complacent after several uneventful trips. Don't do it. Be safe in the yards, and tell all your writer friends what you know about this.

AIR. This is more of a timing issue than a safety issue. Any car you are about to paint should be quiet underneath, that is, no hissing noise. If the car is hissing steadily from underneath, the train will have a locomotive hooked to it and they are "getting up air", which means they will be leaving soon, so just bomb or do a hollow or save your paint for another line. If a line rolls up near you, stops, and then a huge blast of compressed air is heard, like a giant sneezing, that line just "dynamited" and will be there for a while, long enough to piece at least.
Trains need to get up compressed air to release the brakes on each car. It is pumped back from the engine via those hoses you see connecting the cars by the coupler. It takes a while to get up sufficient or "legal" air on a long train. If you were painting a quiet train and then you hear that hiss, finish up quickly, it's gonna roll away soon. The longer the train the more time you have to finish but not by much so just get it done. In yards, sometimes a dead string needs the air bled out of it. If you hear a few distant hisses, one after the other at ten or twenty second intervals, and getting louder each time, get under cover. A brakeman is walking the entire line, letting the air out of each car as he goes

trains use radios for about 80% of all communication. There is a system called the block system, in which a moving train can tell whether or not the next block of track is occupied or not by the signal lights. Littlejohn says the blocks are about two miles in length, but out in the boondocks, a block is a lot bigger than two miles. Engineers look out the right side of trains, so the signals to the right are the ones telling him what to do. If the signal is red, it means stop, and stand. If the train gets a "stop but proceed slowly" signal, it will be red with a smaller signal light off to the side and lower. Yellow means "Proceed with caution". Green means "Go ahead." The signals change according to what the trains are doing on the track. If there is a train in the block behind you, he will be getting a yellow "proceed with caution" while you will be getting a "green--clear track ahead" signal

hopefully this will someone as it has helped me





always remember what is true and what is force fed to you by those who want your money, this includes paint compnies, movies, books, other writers, and the internet...

graff is free, incredibly fun, and has nothing to do with being rich and famous, it isnt a way to make a living or be a half baked rebel

[cans905]

When choosing a name, make sure u do your research. Its fine if u have the same name as some small town writer half way across the world, but don't go around writing seen or cope2 thinking your the first one. Its just disrespectful to the legends.

Also, stay away from Graffiti Creator. It is okay to look at for ideas, but if you just take the coolest looking one and paint it like its your own, a few things will happen. People who started at the same time as you, and who took the time to learn bout structure and flow, will start off with simples but eventually develop their own style and surpass you. This also gives them the ability to improvise when they go out painting. But you will only know how to paint one thing, and when you do go to improvise, you will look super-toy. And someone will eventually recognize your work from graffiti creator and you will have ruined your reputation.

So take the time and put in some effort, and with lots of practice you will see results!!!

[South-Pole]

struggling to find a chill/practice spot?
just posting this link,shows all the legal walls around the world,just thought it could be useful
http://www.legal-walls.net/

[C3ZR ONE]

.


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad:!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DO NOT POST ANYTHING OTHER THAN TUTORIALS IN HERE OR I WILL SUSPEND YOUR ACCOUNT AND EDIT GAY PORN INTO YOUR SIG.

THIS THREAD IS FOR TUTORIALS SO KIDS CAN LEARN SOMETHING AND NOTHING ELSE. THANK YOU DILLHOLES- CEZR


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



.

If you ain't posting something that isn't common knowledge, stay shut up. Nobody needs a "thanks! this helped!"

[seoceo2008]

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[pandemik]

I saw a tutorial on how to turn a glustick tube into a pen, i cant find it, does anybody know where it is?

[white]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5foQOleC50

[WHAT??]

can anyone draw me up a tutorial on how to make W's?? i want to write WHAT? but i cant do W's. can anyone help??

[balance42020]

\\//\\//

[Worms]

heres a couple tips
if you plan on doin this expect to get a record
it will fuck up your life as well as save it
figure out what bars are and learn the basics
once youve done that work on your handys
then lock yourself in a room and draw

[gcrolla]

A few things I feel everyone should do, especially if your new to graffiti

-Don't watch videos on the internet, go to your library and see what films they have there. Read the books they have about graffiti, style and art in general.
-Keep your body in shape, work out, run, do what you can to stay fit and healthy.
-Listen to music and go for a walk/jog.
-Learn about your local scenes history. Try to meet some reputable writers in your area and try to get them to help you out and crit your work.
-Study your own work. Take flicks of everything and find out what you don't like about it. Post it on here if you want harsh crits(not that its a bad thing)
-Try not to drive in your car. Take the public bus or train, if where you're going isn't very far than walk there or ride a bike.

[~OutKast~]

Thanks it helped. :)

[lifer]

NEW TO GRAFFITI ITS 2008 MOTHERFUCKERS UNLESS UR 10-13 years old dont even start

[mtown]

shutthefuckupbitch <a nice oneliner for lifer

[J Hill]

A few things I feel everyone should do, especially if your new to graffiti

-Don't watch videos on the internet, go to your library and see what films they have there. Read the books they have about graffiti, style and art in general.
-Keep your body in shape, work out, run, do what you can to stay fit and healthy.
-Listen to music and go for a walk/jog.
-Learn about your local scenes history. Try to meet some reputable writers in your area and try to get them to help you out and crit your work.
-Study your own work. Take flicks of everything and find out what you don't like about it. Post it on here if you want harsh crits(not that its a bad thing)
-Try not to drive in your car. Take the public bus or train, if where you're going isn't very far than walk there or ride a bike.

aye this sounds like good advice, i def. will remember this.

lol being in iraq i got no choice but to be in shape, but i think i understand why u said dont watch videos off the net. is it because they usually show writers who have already transcended the baby steps, and for us new kats tryna get into it if we try and follow them while they already in the prime (sort of) then it will fuck up our ground level intro or something ?

[cans905]

dont do graff juss because u want to get in on some rebellious shit
If that is ur reason, u wont ever progress far, will waste time and money, and juss look stupid in the end
Do graff because u love the art form and because it moves u in some way
btw, mods really need to clean up this thread

[Neg_INFLUENZ]

I found this pretty helpful... idk if its been posted and i dont really feel like looking. Its for blackbook writing
http://www.trainwriters.com/

[simpk]

as for the "w" help, start with simples and bars.

[Fuji]

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z248/amkah/32dfsaas.jpg

hey will you write me a hand style i write fuji i just hate mine

[Mr yarbles]

Get the fuck off of these boards please.

[SONE.]

dont ask people to write your shit for you. you're missing the fucking point.

[Syke1FTP]

seriously dawg...the whole point is having independent style....not copyin other ppls shit

[nero112]

shutthefuckupbitch <a nice oneliner for lifer

just thought youd like to know the girls ass in your sig is julia bond also i have the vid that ass is from ...and she does anal in it...on topic umm do some bars and get off the net.

[Hydra]

I'm still getting all this shit together, but this site is fucking useful for toots on some things
http://www.learngraffiti.net/graffiti_alphabets.htm

[sallybsk]

ughhhh that url just makes me angry.
YOU CAN'T LEARN GRAFFITI FROM VISITING THAT WEBPAGE, I'm sorry to say, but it's true.
IT'S going to take you years to learn shit. get a notebook. fill every single page with your handy, because you should develop that first, do bars at the same time(since they're quite easy), PRACTICE A LOT... I know you cats want to hit the streets, but don't.


You don't need belton, you don't need crazy fucking color schemes, you don't need wildstyle burners and 3D, FUCK YOU DON'T EVEN NEED A DROP SHADOW. I JUST WANT TO SEE YOU MAKE A FUCKING BAR YOU FUCKING TOY, A GOD DAMN RECTANGLE, OR A BENT RECTANGLE. BAM! Just do that for a few years, meet some people, and by then, you'll already know what to do in the streets, and hopefully some other cats will be teaching you, not over the internet.
/rant

[Black Flag]

Quick tut:

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/2038/shadowc.png

[Black Flag]

Honestly enc?

That work right there is complete shit. Like no exaggeration, its a total fuck up.

But its okay! Because everyone starts out putting out whack ass shit, but if you listen, bench and use your head you can paint with the best of them.

To start off I suggest a few things:

1) read the first couple pages of this thread and the links in the posts
2) watch a couple graff vids, read a couple mags, go through online albums (whatever, just get all that excited energy out.)
3) actually read the first couple pages of this thread this time.
4) start working on your handstyles and block/simple letters (dont even let things like crews,throws, and pieces pop into your tiny little graff head yet!)
5) Fill up all those pages in your black book. (You can come back to the toy forum for crits after you can produce half decent shit on your own time.)

[Black Flag]

What was the difference between a throw up and a piece..

Throw ups are filled abcs etc yea?

might cause a /facepalm oh well

OG throw style? General speaking 2 colors (usually black and white) just your letters with a one color fill and either a drop shadow or 3d.

Throw up (the highlights and the face are not things you should be adding just yet)

http://www.fatcap.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/throwup_zeki1.jpg

Another throw up (how it should be, 2 colors just letters)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_s6AWiGEgZBw/Rydf0qi-jAI/AAAAAAAAAAs/CYblnWOVQXo/s400/fill-In.jpg

Just an example piece:

http://www.razorapple.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/04/adidas-can2-subway.jpg

[cpyrte]

Okay so I thought I'd explain this sticker thing.

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/38/photo0897.th.jpg (http://img122.imageshack.us/i/photo0897.jpg/)

Thats an Image that I took of the stickers that are usually currently available. The one on the left is the Classic USPS sticker, which is free via either visiting a post office or ordering some at the USPS.com website. The one to the right of that is the DHL sticker which comes in a full 8.5 x 11 sheet but the actual sticker is about 7.5 x 5 which is much bigger than the USPS sticker. The only way to obtain these stickers is by ordering them online at the DHL website. Now the sticker at the bottom is the Avery 05450, it's a multi-use label sticker. You'd have to find these at an office supplies store. But honestly don't waste your time with these as the adhesive sucks. Hope this helps :D

[prefer]

throw-two colors with fill
hollow-outlined throw with no fill and one color only 3=d sometimes
peice-multiple colored creation normally rather intricate but still legible (called a burner sometimes)
tag-you know what this is im guessing or just stop
thats really all you need to know use common sense when getting up dont go over shit thats better than you, try not to go over shit peiiod unless these not enough room, if you go over someone on aident or on purpose expect beef, use good judgment dont go over gangs

[Laimonel]

1. Dont wrtie on walls until your thing is fresh.
2. Dont fuck with others.
3. Dont get caught.
Good luck.

[SMK]

heres some tips on racking
in a lot of places if you dont rack youre even more of a toy, also if youre a kid money is hard to come by and stealing is easy....
if you want to steal decos or other markers youre best bet is to go to michaels (they usually have a display stand with like 5 of every color)
get a pringles can and put something in it to muffle sound and reduce jiggle, stuff it in your pants and put the decos in there when stealing them (fits around ten)
to steal paint GO TO WALMART, even though they have semi good security, they wont arrest you if you dont steal more than 25 dollars worth (they will get pissed, possible fee), meaning you can steal as many cans of their 1 dollar crappy suck paint as you want, because theres almost no way to walk out with 25 cans on your person, even with a backpack....
to get free slaps WITHOUT STEALING just go to the usps store and order priority mail stickers (my avatar) theyll ship up to 500 to you for free
kickass

[smokeitup]

ive found that in australia, where im from, that you cant rack paint unless you wanna rack exports from 2 dollar shops. they are great for bombing, the best colours are chrome and black, shit thing is their male so dont take caps.

as for ironlak or any other good paint, you have to buy it because they either keep them locked up in a glass cabinet or behind the counter.

for markers, you can go to places like officeworks and steal boxes of markers for sketching or just simple tags. but they keep the fat markers in a drawer and you gotta take a card with the picture of the marker to the counter and ask to get it.

you can also rack sketch books from officeworks its pretty easy.

and just one other thing, i think its already been mentioned but ill say it anyway, never take your sketch book with you while bombing/piecing. this is just common sense.

just a few tips.

[b5200]

How to make stickers with paper, duct tape, and glue.

Out of necessity, one day i sat down with a bunch of craft stuff and experimented until I created a home made sticker.

Step 1. The backing.

To create the backing you take a piece of paper that you don't plan to use any more and you cover it in duct tape or an equally smooth tape. I use some shitty "clear" duct tape I got at big lots because it's not actually clear(and therefore useless), the smooth side can have duct tape ripped off it without paper staying on the tape, and because it can usually hold onto the backing instead of going with the duct tape. These are things you should look for in an alternative tape if you want to save your duct tape for better things.

Step 2. The sticky part.

This is the part of the sticker that will actually be applied to the surface that you stick your sticker on. Take the duct tape and apply it in a different direction than the tape on the backing. Be very careful with the tape, if you accidentally get it dirty, don't rip it off whatever you stuck it on then use it for the sticker. If it isn't clean it wont stick, that's why the backing is coated in tape. Make sure to keep the tape smooth so that the paper stays on better. Sometimes the tape can be hard to remove from the backing so what Ill usually do is take some scrap tape and stick it in the corner between the backing and second layer of duct tape. This creates a pull tab for quick removal. If your scrap tape is too thin you can sometimes pull it and just rip a strip between your sticker and backing.

Step 3. The image.

Now all that's left is the part that you want people to see. I recommend creating your image beforehand so that if you make a mistake you don't lose an entire sticker.

Simply take your image and glue it to the backing. Be sure to use less glue towards the middle and use more glue on the edges. If you use too much glue it will fuck with the image. After you put the paper on the glue(or the backing on the glue) squeeze out as much glue as you can by running an old credit card or a piece of cardboard over it. The corners have a tenancy to be what causes the paper to peel so what I've tried recently is not gluing the corners with regular glue then after it dries finish up the corners with super glue. I haven't been doing this last part long enough to see how they last but I think it's gonna stay up longer.



I've used this to create stickers from printed pictures without any sticker paper. Sticker paper is easier but I don't have any so I created this, plus I suspect duct tape stays up longer than what they use for glue.

[(SoS)Viruz]

DONT POST UNLESS YOU ARE POSTING A TUTORIAL.

If you post here, you will receive a warning, any more repeat offenses will get you an infraction


If you have a question we have a thread here for that

Toy Questions: (http://www.bombingscience.com/graffitiforum/showthread.php?t=277) (Just Click) Some should be willing to help you, and answer you question

Tools and Tips: (http://www.bombingscience.com/graffitiforum/forumdisplay.php?f=10)(Just Click) If you can't get a answer their. Then go here.

[Phat 2]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185753_202707966422787_100000507545549_705772_6271 617_n.jpg

bars tutorial
this is a piece of a battle being run right now, so I thought I'd leave the skeleton (red lines) showing to give everyone who's having trouble keeping bars going in their pieces an idea about the concept that is letter structure
notice what bars each letter is made of, how they flare in one direction, notice where they meet and where they dont.
notice how the same bar keeps going in the same direction with the same flow even after it goes through another bar. most importantly, notice how all these bars overlap to make one specific, solid letter.
notice how only the outer line hich is called outline is the only one traced... all the red lines are supposed to be erased after that.
and notice how all the 3D lines (dotted ones) converge into the same vanishing point (an invisible point which all these lines lead to) this is called a one-point perspective 3D effect... or just 3D for short. hehe
in many cases, having a vanishing point is better and looks better than having all your 3 D lines going in one specific direction, like all to the leftm, or all to the right etc... it gives the piece more depth and makes it pop off better...

as you've probably noticed by now, if you've been some time with us on the forums, that most crits toys get are regarding letter structure. Bars are the most important part in this thing. so practice them as good as you possibly can, these good people arent' giving you crits about bars for nothing. you'll see as I certainly did that without em, you're gonna be stuck with one badddd habit of having unstructured letter for the rest of your graff life

they say a picture is worth a thousand words, I hope this one was worth at least only ten and helped a thousand good guys

PS: if anyone has a good tutorial which they would like to have featured in this thread, do not hesitate to send it to me through PM and I 'll post it with your name

piece ! :P

[ven0m]

here (dev.e-types.com/playtype/about/typefaces/glossary/)'s a link to a page where you can learn all you need to know about typography basics...
typography is the stepping stone to graffiti. It's THE VERY most important science to master if you're looking to get somewhere with your graffiti (excluding characters and backgrounds of course... this has only to do with letters, nothing else)
Artists with typography experience progress faster, smoother, and easier than others that start doing graffiti without any typography background

read the stuff on the page if you're passionate enough about graff to spend the time required to learn that stuff (which is definitely worth it)
most of it is important, few of it not so much... it has a lotta technical terms and names which are nice to memorize, but of course, that's not at all necessary

take it from a graphic designer, that shit's good :>

warning: kids will find the page boring/uninteresting