ok, how do i fix this problem, when i spray it doesnt spray out clean but in these beads or dropletsand its really shitty looking, Do i shake longer? is it the surface? and also it only really happens to lighter shades, like whitre and yellows, and occasionally some reds. help, and what are some techniques to not make it run
no really.... shake for a few minutes... like 2 or 3... does this happen on every single can you try?
wtf are you being serious? no not all cans, darker colors and shades like blues and black are nice, solid, and clean but lighter shades look very shitty and dont show up well, and i know you have to do layers in some cases but this is very back looking
what kinda cans are they? and also you're not using the same caps on the darker colors obviously right?
It could be that I put a hex on yellow paint, so that it would be the worst paint in exsistence. Ugh, yellow paint is shit.
It's most likely the caps but it could also be that maybe as your painting your pushing the cap at an angle slightly, that can also cause that.
im pretty sure its the cap. its either clogged or clogged. i dont bother with soaking caps in thinner too much anymore, when the cap is through i just take it off the can and throw it
1) the cap is not seated on the can nozzle all the way 2) the cap is to big for the can 3) the cap is clogged 4) low can presure take your pick
yeah that happend to me tha other day but i think it might be tha brand but one you could try is painters touch
i had the same prob with some paint i had a while ago, it turned out to be the brand...shit brand shit paint, shaking helps a lil but its easyer to buy good quality paint.
what brand were you using if you still find that you still arent getting clean lines with a new cap and you have shaken the can for 4 minutes try rubbing a small amount of paint thinner round the female part of the can. As paint drips on the can cause the cap not to fit right and you will get wank lnes. peace.
ive got a question... if i do a background with a roller how long does it take to dry before i can do the piece over it
depends on the paint. i think you just wait until its dry enough that you can touch it without making a huge mess, bunt i have never really done it. but to increase drying times, you can use japan dryer or paint thinner on oil paints, and floetrol (latex paint thinner) on latex paint instead of water. those dude who paint apartments with those wagnor-type sprayers for a living use floetrol and mix it like 15-20% of the total mixture. it makes the paint cover more and dry super fast. and one often overlooked way to reduce drips is to spray from far away from the wall (5-10 inches or so) your lines will be softer, but once you get used to controlling cans from a distance and maintaining that distance its a godsend. plus otherwise its hard as hell (for me ) to get fat lines with any rusto products unless using german caps when i spray from 8 inches or so i can get 3 inch lines with painters touch and a pink dot, and i never could before. and then you can move your hand slower to be more accurate if you spray from farther away, like if you want to have your outline and fill match up correctly on throws. pressure dumping is pretty sweet too, i have heard. i almost never do it, but i have qa few cans of rusto fblack and theyre on their last legs as far as pressure, but they still have alot of paint in them ( i clean my caps alot) so i can get real accurate lines from close up with few drips because the pressure is practically gone nobody is going to read this