Photography

[ShIfTeD]

that level that fits into the hot shoe is pretty sick...i still need a new tripod so i said i might as well just get a tripod with a level built in ya know?


the 5th picture actually had a few swans in the little pond thing, so unnecisary

ares, what do you mean by the warp tool, like..using it to put the buildings back into shape?


also on my main post..i had two pics of the very top of a building...just added those because i was really amazed with how close up i could get that lense...that building was giant

[PERVERTO]

If your getting into architecture, the best peice of advice I can give you is get photoshop, and practice using the warp tool. Using a level will help you, but when your trying to get a whole building into frame, its not always possible to keep level. Can't always do it in camera, but its not that hard to keep your vertical lines straight in post.

By warp tool, do you mean lens correction filter, cos that is what is used to correct parralell lines and avoid the distortion caused by looking up at buildings with wide angle lenses etc. And ares is also right, forget those silly leveling tools u stick in the hot shoe, leveling your photos does not really matter when the shot has been taken, try to be as stright as you can, but its no big deal correcting it later in photoshop or lightroom.

Shifted the one of the walkway tunnel is your strongest photo there, its mean.

After shooting some architecture with my crappy tripod you start to realise why pro's spend thousands on manfrotos. if your serious then invest in something real good, saves just having to buy it later.

[PERVERTO]

that level that fits into the hot shoe is pretty sick...i still need a new tripod so i said i might as well just get a tripod with a level built in ya know?


the 5th picture actually had a few swans in the little pond thing, so unnecisary

ares, what do you mean by the warp tool, like..using it to put the buildings back into shape?


also on my main post..i had two pics of the very top of a building...just added those because i was really amazed with how close up i could get that lense...that building was giant

The lens correction tool can be used to avoid this, which happens when shooting architecture from other than level angles and wide angle lenses



pro architecture photographers use large format cameras to avoid this, which do this inside the camera.




this thread is great btw, good shit fellas

[PERVERTO]

seriously guys, watch this guys videos, he is a king, and uses relatively cheap lighting gear to get dope results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqMI72jsXRQ

there are 10 videos or something.

[PERVERTO]

If your getting into architecture, the best peice of advice I can give you is get photoshop, and practice using the warp tool. Using a level will help you, but when your trying to get a whole building into frame, its not always possible to keep level. Can't always do it in camera, but its not that hard to keep your vertical lines straight in post.

ares bruv, post some photos

[thesecks]

seriously guys, watch this guys videos, he is a king, and uses relatively cheap lighting gear to get dope results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqMI72jsXRQ

there are 10 videos or something.

yeah man good videos, i like seeing ones like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ8PG...eature=related

where the image looks pretty fucking quality but when you see behind the scenes you realise its not too hard to do

[PERVERTO]

Yeah, i bought some flashes and triggers a while back, they are a lot of fun.

[immoral]

I am looking for a reasonably priced Nissin DI-466 (ETTL) so if you have one or know of one for cheap, let me know

[PERVERTO]

why that particular flash? there are hundreds of sunpak flashes on ebay for cheap as chips, you'll need a set of flash triggers if you are thinking of using lighting.

[immoral]

It will work with my SX10 IS, and I need an external flash for bandshoots while in concert.
Any tips?

[PERVERTO]

shouldn't any TTL flash work with that camera? even not ttl, on manual mode.

if I were you, sell your point and shoot and buy a d40 or equivalent SLR, and a cheap nikon or canon TTL flash, especially if your shooting moving subjects like bands.

[immoral]

Im putting away the money for a Canon EOS 5D Mark 2

[PERVERTO]

Good choice.

[ShIfTeD]

got a torch today






nothing special about the water tower...i just thought it was cool how far the torch worked

[ShIfTeD]

so recently ive had like reflections from lights showing up in my pictures

you can see in the bottom 2...how do i get rid of this? its ruining a good number of my photos

some light trails...

[ShIfTeD]

this entire picture is a good example, this is non-edited...this shits really pissing me off

[immoral]

[vegimite on toast]

this entire picture is a good example, this is non-edited...this shits really pissing me off

i'm not an expert at all but as far as i know you have to either take the photo from a point where there's no lights like that in the way or use a lens shade and position it properly

theres probably a better way to work around it that i don't know about but thats what i do


....or you could take the photos during the day

[immoral]

What about some sort of filter?

[thesecks]

lens hoods help, or just get a bit of cardboard and shade it from reflections whilst being out the shot