Yeah, my friend was doing a field shoot for his uni work, he used my gear and my remote flashes and lighting.
View attachment 510711 View attachment 510712 View attachment 510713 View attachment 510714 View attachment 510715 View attachment 510716 View attachment 510717
the good ol' water balloon launcher nice shit man anyone got tips on shooting the night sky? i tried numerous times to get star trails but it ends up looking like shit
shifted: you're more likely to get better results on film, because of digital noise. Another thing is that you want to get away from the city lights and shoot on a clear dry night. The farter away from light pollution you are, the better your pictures will look. Is it okay if I hate lomo?
yeah go for lowest possible ISO, and about f/8-11 ish, doesnt matter too much, just depends how long you want the shutter open
some pics i get awesome pics of stars, like the bridge pic had a good amount of visable stars i got a spot where i can get away from lights, i go there to watch meteor showers and stuff...about how long does the shutter stay open to get some good results?
getting my first camera tomroow, gunah get a canon xs10 is? want an opinion on if i should or not, and can you chnage the lenses on it?
Don't get that. Terrible little sensors and inability to change lenses. Get a Nikon D60 or D3000 or a Canon 1000D or whatever they are called in the states, rebel or whatever the fuck. Just a cheap DSLR. And sir.one, my Nikon D300 was used with a Tokina 50-135mm F/2.8 and a remote triggered SB-600 flash on a stand. The camera I'm holding in the shot is a D90 that belongs to my friend who was the photographer for the shoot, I was assistant. If you're wondering why the image seems so crisp, Nikon and Canon and most japanese digital cameras have anti aliasing filters on their sensors which slightly blur the photos taken with them. This does not happen with digital cameras such as the new Leica M9. I hate this blurring of the images, so in the custom settings of my camera I have bumped up the sharpness to just under its maximum level which gives my images a much sharper look. Some people hate it, I don't.
wow, awesome i love it in the newer model nikon menu, how do you go about changing that? i noticed that as well
On my D300, you go into the custom picture settings, then standard, then just bump the sharpness up, it'll be in your instruction manual.
yeah, off hand its not the same but when i get to my manual ill look it up its really hard to get a good light tag...most of them look like shit...see below once and a while it will actually look the way its supposed to
try incorperating some people into your photos. since you are using long exposures, if you have any kind of flash at all you can flash your subject during the long exposure and u wont be seen.
its always anywhere from 12am to 4am when im shooting, its hard to get people on the streets though what do you mean i wont be seen? since its such a long exposure, flash the building/whatever im shooting and since the subject has the light going on it, i wont be shown in the picture?
I mean if you are shooting an exposure of like 10-20sec or more, if you run around inside the frame, so long as you don't stand still, you won't be seen in th finished images. so you can run up to a subject in your photos, flash them and run away and you won't show up in the images. and im not saying you should shoot the public, try shooting your friends or someone interesting. get into portraiture.
oh ok, word yeah..portraits never really interested me but ill give it a try sooner or later how do you layer photos with light tags? like photoshop wise...like the light tags with other people in there so they dont have to stand there forever
before they begin, get them to pose however they wanna pose, then flash them at the beggining of the exposure, just use your pop up flash if you don't own one. Anything that gets flashed gets imprinted into the image, then they can move around the tag the shit out of shit.