you dont need a drill, you can use a drill bit and use your hands to screw it in since the plastic is pretty thin. ******** has a tutorial on youtube.
Still does the job...the reason why it doesn't come out as fat is because of the brand not the adapter or the cap...
I thought the reason that it doesn't come out as fat with them was because the adapter doesn't let the slit on the end of the stem work, which controls pressure. Also that video on how to convert caps was posted on youtube by artpr1mo
no, the slit is actually what the paint goes thru to exit the cap not the bottom opening, there is something with in the paint that makes the pressure different not sure what it is, or how...
yes on normal female cans the slit on the bottom of the cap does play a big part in the amount of paint that can travel through the nozzle, because when you push tha cap down the valve opens up, the paint goes around the stopper and enters the cap through that slit. but on a male valve can its completly different, thers no slit its just a straight shot controlled by the valve. the amount of paint that comes out of the valve is all you have to work with. with the stock cap the spray is real hard, youll get splatters, runs,and its difficult to get nice clean lines. with the use of the SEKT CAPADAPT you can use a NY FAT to get a softer spray, cleaner lines, more control and it does give pretty thick lines(2 finger thick). or you can use the gold dot or maclaim to get soft, thin really clean lines. each cap does change the spray, some will work better than others but its a matter of preferance and experimentation on your part, there are alot of different caps out ther and alot of different cans just like any of them you need to find what works best for you, the SEKT CAPADAPT is just a tool that expands the possibilities of male valve cans, we can now use these cans to produce quality works of art and not just be limited to sloppy throws and messy tags.. the SEKT CAPADAPT will not transform your painters touch into a montana gold, but it does put the painters touch in the forfront of all the other hardware store brands out there, because now male valves are no longer an issue...juss give them a chance, youll see what i mean... ...sme2tha3...TWN.SEKT...
glad to see a thread on caps.im a collector myself... [Broken External Image]:http://www.flightminiatures.com/Newsletter/archive/newslttr_media/fly_caps.jpg
^^thats a pretty good idea. id rather walk around with a bag that has hairspray rather than paint cans in it. get the old plastic bag, throw in a pop, bag of chips, and one of those and say your coming from the 7-11 if you get stopped. nice nice
If you want to avoid this thing and use good old fashioned caps on the PT/AA cans, use the female caps from here: http://www.troutartsupply.com/store.php?female_caps-pg1-cid65.html They work great, I know the guys that run the site and they put a lot of work into them. I can't say I've tried the Cap-Adapts, but these female caps are a decent alternative. The fats are especially dope.
^^^id rather avoid using female caps, considering they will clog, you will have get more, and you cant use them if you get some normal female cans... one capadapt will never clog, and you can just use the caps you know, love, and most likely already have, without having to spring on male caps, female caps....
so what would be the messiest shittyest drippiest cap to use? i like disgusting tags.that augor cap was fuckin nuts but sadly none avail around my part of town and i dont wanna drive 45 min jus for a fuckin cap...any ideas?
Alright, so for bombing, I figure a rusto fat and a german outline? One for fills etc. Got suggestions. I was jsut wondering