Right marty, sorry, I don't generally read asterix'. A writer I know is called marty, one of his crew members is on these forums. Just fillin' in the blanks. I have never seen those caps, but now I want one rea bad. Those flairs were fat. Good combinatio for flairs is A solid silver Like level 5 montana or something, and a Sabotaz can. hard line with fucking huge fluffy flairs out the side. Looks dope.
try it on a different can sometimes those male valve cans clog in the valve, even just using the stock caps, it has nothing to do with the adapter, all the adapter does is keep the two ends together so the paint can flow through, it doesnt change anything in the can or in the cap. i have two full cloged cans on my desk, male valves juss suck but we do what we can to make them useable, maybe theyll find out about these adapters and reallize that we'll find a way to use ther paint one way or another . it aint worth skrewin up theyr paint with shitty male valves, they'll go bacc to the original female cans and acknowledge us as theyr number 1 customers...but anyway let us know if the problem continues,,, thanks smear3.TWN.SEKT...
german outline 1, rusto fat, banana skinny,& ny skinny...these four have a thicker stem and shouldn't leak...
rustoleum seams to leak with most tips...kinda gay especially since krylon switched up the valve system(even tho i wasnt a big fan of krylon they had a pretty dope falt black) and color place dropped the chrome and gold colors which imo were the only good colors they had...whack.
you can get most caps to work on rusto/trimclad/accents theres a number of ways to do it. the easiest is to stick a pencil in the tube on the underside of the cap and widen it a bit, be easy on it, don't use too much pressure doing it or your going to break the cap. best done on orange dots. another way is to carefully use your lighter to heat up but not melt the bottom stem of the cap, then do the above technique, it causes the cap to not return to its previous size if you want to do a bunch at once. another way of doing it is to just put the cap on the can, let it gush/spit, and then let it dry, the paint will make a seal around the cap and it shouldn't leak again, you can only use that cap on the can though. best done on fat caps that are easily re-used.
alright, i'll try that, but just as a seperate question, are there any super fat caps that work well with the rusto? I want something to do crazyyyyy flares with.
Not many caps work with Rusto, especially fats. Anyone else finding that the cap adapts are sorta restricting when it comes to flares?
its easy to make caps work with rusto you just need a bike spoke and a exacto blade turn out a bit of the plastic in the caps base and put the spoke in (turn it 360 and let it sit for a min) it makes the tube bigger and it stops the leaking, altho 30% of the time the tube cracks nad ruins the cap