For those of you that dont want to browse through all of the other threads just to find this out, here is all you will probably need to know: *Mod don't delete this because it will stop others from making more threads!!!* -Add sugar into your wheatpaste for added strength...only a Tablespoon or two... -Add some Wood Glue to strengthen it... -Normal white Bleached flour is better than wheat flour!!! More adhesive and wont discolor the poster... -After applying your poster, take a very sharp razor and make a lot of small fine cuts into it so if they try to rip it down, they will only get some of the small splinters instead of the whole thing... -Use an extension pole to get higher places... -Smooth out the poster and leave NO Bubbles, or Wrinkles, etc...or at least try not to....(Some people after placing it on the wall, they hold it on the wall with one hand and use a squeegee to flatten it out completely with the other...then paste over the top) -Wheatpaste the wall, then after you place the poster, paste over the face of the poster too! This is what will really seal it to the wall -Use thin paper like Butcher paper, Xerox Paper, or Newsprint -Use the Rasterbater if a photocopier to enlarge it isnt available: Rasterbater -If using a home printer, use a Laserjet....not an Inkjet!!! -Wheatpaste should ALWAYS be as consistant as Tomato Juice -Use oil-based markers when making hand-drawn posers...(sharpies, magnums, etc) -ALWAYS spray hand-drawn posters w/clear acrylic coating... -OR, after hand-drawing them, go and get them copied and printed on a Xerox machine for better quality...maybe a little more expensive for color,...but hey? Not everyone can get Clear Acrylic....or maybe you want to MASS produce more!!! Here are some Recipes: Classic Wheatpaste — Begin by pouring one cup of Bleached White flour into 1 1/2 cups of water. — Heat to a boil until it thickens, stir to remove all lumps, with a whisk, and add more water until it turns into a thick, clear goop. — Cook on low heat for at least half an hour, being careful not to burn it. After approx. 30 mins; paste will become thinner and more transparent. — Upon reaching desired (smooth, pliable, and somewhat transparent) consistency, take paste off the heat and let cool. — Pour into airtight container. Bombing Paste by *Sorry...forgot who contibuted this...* 1 cup of Bleached flour 1/2 cup of rice flour 3 teaspoons of cornstarch 2 cups of water -Combine bleached flour, rice flour, and water in a pot on the stove on low heat. -The mixture should be very watery- -Stir the mixture constantly with a wire whisk until the paste begins to thicken just a tiny bit. -This may take about ten min- -Take the pot off the heat when you start to feel the mixture thickening. -In a jar with a lid, combine three teaspoons of corn starch with a half a cup of water. -Tighten the lid and shake the mixture until there are no lumps of cornstarch visible. -Add the cornstarch mixture to the flour mixture and stir for another 2 minutes. *Make sure you stir constantly!* ********Now i still have one unanswered question*********** If one were to plan on wheatpasting a poster and was going to use Clear Acrylic to make it last longer....would you spray it on BEFORE pasting it? DURING pasting it? Or AFTER pasting it and its dried? Hope somebody can answer that and can stop all the threads on Wheatpasting...
spray the clear acrylic on before you start the pasting. right after you finish drawing/printing it out.
what about that elmers spray can glue shit? does that help if i spray that over a sticker or somthing?
I've been wondering what people thought of spray glue, not like craft glue, but 3m 77, 80, 90, and Molotow and Mtn's. Some people use a mixture of rice and wheat flour, I've also added cornstarch. Laser printers work very well because they apply plastic to the paper, this makes them waterproof, and resistant to fading in the sun. Inkjet printer ink runs with water, which is why if inkjet is your only option you need to mist it with clearcoat, spraying full-on will make the ink run and putting wheatpaste on without the clearcoat will make it run. Inkjet ink also fades very easily. About the acrylic, the person who already posted seemed like they were thinking about a clearcoat or something, I think spraying clearcoat, shellac or acrylic over it when it's dry is best, but should help some while drying, this should work for spraypainting too.
Bump...i started this thread....but somethings wrong with my username! I changed the password and it still wont lemme login! Oh well....
where the fuck do u get your picture on huge papers and i know about rasterbator.. but i want it to be one sheet???
why did we start a new wheatpasting thread? The old one was dope. It had hella info. Bump that and dump this one. The guy that asked about enlarging- I use a projector I bought at a craft store and use poster paper rolls. The guy that asked about glue- I didn't know Molowtow and Montana made glue? I call bullshit... It could be true, but I never seen it. Mr Breakfast uses a secret industral strength spray glue for small posters in heaty spots, but overall, you just need to practice using paste. When you get good with it, it'll be quicker then trying to use spray adhesive. Here's a tip- when hitting a heaty spot, forget about the brush. just put a bottle of water in your pocket and some paper towels. Nothing is gonna get your poster up quicker then just spreading it with your hands. That's how I rock, unless it's reeeeally huge, then you pretty much gotta use a roller or preferably a soft broom.
can you just put some wheatpaste on before you go pasting and let this act as a clearcoat? how many posters can you get outta a can of clearcoat?
I want to attach newspaper scraps onto a canvas to form a flat newspaper surface. 1) Will wheatpaste let the newspaper adhere flattened to stretched canvas? 2) If so, how long should I let it dry for?
I call not bullshit from mtn color's website "Montana Contact Adhesive. Great for wheat pasteing and all other gluing needs." here's a pic from a montana distributor [Broken External Image]:http://www.illegalsupply.com/pics/adhesv.jpg Also, from Molotow's website "three-way adjustable valve, for variable working hightech fiber adhesives for permanent + temporary gluing. For all interior and outside applications. Sticks fast and reliably on: foam material, plastic, rubber, textiles, metal, glass, leather, wood, carpet, expanded polystyrene and soft foam. Liquid – no color. here's a pic also from that page [Broken External Image]:http://molotow.com/uploads/pics/sprayglue2.jpg it will stick fine, it might take a while to dry, but very long, just check on it every once in a while you could, I just don't think it would work quite as well, also depending on how you create your image, you might need to mist it which would be difficult to do with wheatpaste. how many posters you can get from a can of clear coat depends on how many coats you do, how large your posters are, the type, the size of can, and the brand's coverage, that's like asking how many square feet you can get out of a can of paint. I agree everyone should go back to the old thread
Paint fumes- Wheatpaste will act as a mild clearcoat on it's own, but don't put it on before you go, when it dries, it gets hard. Your posters would be kinda ruined. Here's a tip. If you're really worried about a posters longevity, consider which direction the poster will be facing. East/west facing posters will get more sun exposure and fade quicker, regardless of clearcoat. sIn- Yeah, it'll work, but I'd be concerned about the smell after a few days. I know wheatepaste rots and smells like hell if you leave it in a bottle. I don't know if you'd have the same problem if you spread a thin layer on a canvas or not. Lemme know how it turns out.... Or you could just use Teknabond wallpaper paste.
Oh snap! I just saw that glue post.... Damn. I'm tempted to check some of that out, but chances are, I'll stick with paste.
I only use wheatpaste on large posters, as i prefer molotow or 3m super 77 spray adhesive for anything under a 3' by 3'. It works great on any smooth to semi-smooth surface and even holds up well to weather and can be used in the cold as long as you keep your cans warm ( i use handwarmers in my b-pack). Plus its easier to pack around than all your wheatpaste equipment when you may have to run. Stay away from all cheaps brands and with 3m go for there most extreme (super77) if you cant get molotow.
Sorry to resurrect old treat, new to this forum, in my early days i was using even a varnish for boats as cover and must say they have achieved pretty decent look