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Chemistry 101:Beginner Ink Labs and Pics

Discussion in 'Toys forum' started by HëRbN, Jul 2, 2008.

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  1. Schreiber242

    Schreiber242 Member

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  2. Eurothrash

    Eurothrash Senior Member

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    Looks good, got any pics of tags?
  3. Your name hear

    Your name hear Member

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    Can I do any thing with this stuff
  4. TeeZe

    TeeZe Member

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    you seriously dont want to use something that can be cleaned with water for graffiti do you?
  5. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    you could try boiling it down to a sludge and then cutting it with naptha perhaps. may or may not work out
  6. Crookenhagen

    Crookenhagen Member

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    Yo I ain't try this myself, cus my shit perfect already but my homie adds beetroot juice in his shit. Worth a try for someone who still experimentin'.
  7. BridgeRat

    BridgeRat Senior Member

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    Empty out a glass marker from the dollar store and replace the contents with un-thinned oil based bucket paint. The paint has the same consistency unthinned as the glass paint. Just make sure you squeez while you do your hand.
  8. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    Thats not ink.. Nor a recipe. I see this has gone to the dumpster
  9. osber

    osber Senior Member

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    We just use nitric acod on stainless steel. Turms your hands yellow if you get It on you thats all
  10. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    Bump for all the random new threads about ink, keep it in here and i will try to help you if it's worth my time, do your homework class in now in session
  11. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    Methylene blue is generally just like a cap full. You don't need much. And you should use 99%alc for your base. Although i orefer using just pvc primer no alcohol.

    And you cant use much for pigment unless you suspend it. Which becomes complicated, and it has to be super fine
  12. scaper

    scaper Senior Member

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    the only ink i can grab for free is india ink.. the thing is it seems like its thick af to drip or really write streaks instead and even if you squeeze hella hard it doesnt help, any tips/ideas? think i could thin the ink with water maybe?
  13. scaper

    scaper Senior Member

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  14. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    Yup, india ink is only good if its on something that you know will never be buffed. Being water based its pretty simple to remove.

    One thing you could try that i have had mixed luck with in the past is boiling all the water out and then using it as an additive. But its a lot of work for eh results. And depending on the brand and type the pigment may settle if not suspended first, at which point suspending pigments involves shellac and it is not easy. The ink i tried it with i didnt not suspend it and just used it as an additive, and when it dried it was clumpy and chalky looking and didnt hold to the surface very well. You. Could wipe the black off and itd just be the purple ghost left over.

    Which reminds me i nedled to make another batch of metallic blue ink one of these days.. metallics are a bitch to make too
    Last edited: May 27, 2016
  15. scaper

    scaper Senior Member

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    Alright thanks for the tips guys
  16. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    It's a legit ink, I use my pen base 200+ blue pens and pvc primer. Then I usually suspend metallic pigment and use it as an additive. I'll do a full right up when and if I make another batch. It's a labor of love. Comes out dope though. It's like a sparkly dark blue with purple tint.

    I have to tweak it or find a better mop though cause it tends to gunk up the nibs after a day or two or use and doesn't look as metallic. So I gotta find something that'll let it pass through a little easier. I'll see if I have any pictures of it

    EDIT: old ass pictures but this is the ink. You can at least see the metallic shining.

    Last edited: Jul 18, 2016
  17. Abesk

    Abesk Senior Member

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    Damn Herb you know your shit. I gotta try that.
    Could you elaborate a bit more on the metallic pigment and how you get it in there?
  18. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    There are a couple ways, the pigment I use is the pearl ex metallic white/pearl color. It comes in a powder in a little jar. You can add it straight to your ink but it settles rather quickly and gunks up nibs.

    To avoid that as much as possible you have to further grind it. I grind mine in a marble mortor and pestle for about 20 minutes, then use only the finest parts of the leftover powder. You can then boil linseed oil, which is extremely dangerous. It's highly flammable and becomes more so when heated. Shellac can also be used to suspend pigments. Neither is easy. Once the linseed oil becomes thicker and sludge like you add your ground pigment and mix it up. This coats the molecules with the resin material allowing them to suspend once added to your base. Which can then be thinned or cut with alcohol ,naphtha, or xylene.

    Black ink can be made in a similar fashion by burning pine pitch, or something else that produces thick black smoke when burned. You allow the soot to collect on something above what is being burned. Boil your linseed oil till it's a sludge and add the soot to that. Which works because the particles are so small. Then once again cut it with whatever base chemical you choose to use.

    Ink particles for suspending are generally between 0 and 1 micron in size, a human hair is 75 microns. Hence why grinding or mechanical agitation is required to get the full effect. Anything larger than that won't flow with the ink.

    Knowledge has been dropped. Lol like a said it's a labor of love, and many consider it more work than it is worth. When I made it in the past I used it in places I didn't think would get buffed right away. But then again I also had a lot of stained additive in it so it ghosted pretty good when painted over.
  19. laceup

    laceup Member

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    yo question: i cant get ahold of much to mix ink with like rubbin alchohol any substitution recipies to help me get back up with??
  20. HëRbN

    HëRbN Elite Member

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    What is preventing you? You should have an abundance of supplies if your in the US. 99% alcohol is like 2 bucks, PVC primer is sold at home depot and lowes in little cans that fit in pockets, and is also not very expensive.

    Bottom line you need a base chemical if your going to make your own ink. Other wise just cop some markers and premade ink or make a mop and some ghetto krink.
  21. badder boy

    badder boy Senior Member

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    red nero + black and blue ink from ballpoints untill it is almos black
  22. SozeyBoii

    SozeyBoii Member

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    Ink recipe's and info

    50 pens per half cup of alcohol. high percentage rubbing alcohol (ATLEAST 90%). Less alcohol and more pens= thicker more opaque ink, but dont make it too thick lol.
    I always make atleast 8oz(1 cup) of ink at a time. And to make it thicker ill ad 20 pens to the usual recipe or use 2oz less than normal.
    STAINERS: purple PVC primer (can also be used as replacement for alcohol as the solvent base). Is found in the PVC isle at any hardware store, home depot, menards, etc
    Gentian Violet: purple dye (found in crystal or powder, or 1% diluted solution) If you get the 1% solution at a pharmacy, put it in a shitty pot on a Bunsen burner/hot plate on low temp for a whole day to get the water in it to evaporate. You'll end up w a small amount of powder. Add just enough alcohol or any other solvent (xylene etc) to make it liquid and mix it thoroughly and then add to your batch of ink.
    Methylene blue: Same as gentian violet^ but blue. Can be found at fish isle in pet stores in a diluted solution. Used to heal fish of ich disease, which is an infection of the scales. to purify do the process above.
    Malachite Green: Same as Gentian violet and Methylene blue but green. More common than methylene blue at pet stores in fish isle. Purify it and add it for green stains.
    Potassium Permanganate: Brownish, black oxidizer (the powder in the grog booster powder). Can be found in liquids in fish isle at pet stores or in the garden isle at places such as menards or home depot. If you use the garden version you need to strain dirt and other particles out. if you get the fish solution just evaporate the water out using process above^^^
    Leather dyes: brands such as Feibings are the best. Hardest staining colors are dark blue, dark red, or purple. add a slight amount to get your ink to bleed through lots of layers of paint.
    DOT3 break fluid: add a cupful or 2 into 8oz of ink atleast to slow down ink drying time so as to allow the ink to seep deeper into the surface you applied it to so it bleeds through more layers of buff and is harder to chemically scrub out.
    Feibings edge ink: Edge dressing, which stains well, with a rubber composition. Xylene based. Dries into a synthetic rubber and becomes incredibly hard to remove. MUCH harder to remove than paint. Is pretty thick so thin it with xylene, MEK, Ketones, or simmilar solvent. Bleeds through quite a few layers by itself, but bleeds through many layers when thinned with ink or with stainers added.
    Heres a solid recipe for purple stainer ink that doesn't fade fast:
    55 Red pens to 45 Blue pens and 5 black pens. 6oz Purple PVC primer (optional: 1 gram of potassium permanganate powder)
    SOLID MOP PAINT RECIPE: 2/3 Oneshot sign painters/pin-stripping paint 1/3 xylene. Don't use alcohol, use xylene. Xylene can be purchased at menards, walmart, home depot, or any hardwarestore. Major bitch to remove by scrubbing off. Is still clearly visible after attempted chemical buff.
    Most of the time inks and paints dont mix well unless agitated constantly before use, UNLESS you add a bit of acetone to bind them somewhat.
    Pure shellac resin. soluble in alcohol