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The Ink Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Tools and tips' started by Enmity, Feb 3, 2008.

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  1. MrSixes

    MrSixes Elite Member

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    That's because it's ran by a compulsive smart ass that needs to be on some type of medication for diarea of the mouth, tourets of the asshole and writers cramp.
     
  2. Napo

    Napo Member

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    Thanks for the advice ✌
     
  3. Klide

    Klide New Member

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    does the:" Red paint mix by: ??? " on the recipe thread work in pump markers?
     
  4. stover

    stover New Member

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    With the ratio and thinner being used in that recipe, no probably not, but if you used a solvent with higher solvency like xylene or Acetone then you can probably make it work but using a mop you don't have to worry about how thick it is for the most part and your nib won't get all clogged from dust and oil that gets stuck in it.

    Anyway, what's everyone using for ink and paint nowadays?
     
  5. stover

    stover New Member

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    Tarmac Resealer
    Bitumen based wood stain
    Black Oil based paint
    Raven Oil
    Oil based shoe dye
    Bitumen based roofing caulk
    Potassium Permanganate in Acetone
    Any oil based ink, including xylene based pilot, magic ink etc

    Carbon / Graphite / Black Pigment
    Polyurethane
    Cobalt Drier / Japan Drier / Quick Drying medium


    This is what I use for regular outdoorss spots besides for regular oil based paint.
    Found the Tarmac Resealer and bitumen wood stain pretty cheap in 4Ls, Tarmac Resealer is thin and not super opaque but it bonds to the surface real nice and works perfect for thinning the thick, opaque woodstain.
    Highly UV and rain resistant brown black ink
    Brown bleed through, slight stain
    Unbuffable with alcohol based removers
    Will not chip off like regular paints
    Thin as ink but as permanent and opaque as paint
    It dries pretty slow which is good or bad depending on if you have access to strainers
    Best ran through a mop but flows fine through a marker
    Best used on a semi porous, sunny surface
    It dries to a shiny, highly glossy finish but when in a sunny spot sometimes cures to this cool, satin matte finish.
     
  6. stover

    stover New Member

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    Here's another one that literally everyone can make. I'm from New Zealand and we got no graffiti shops, no commercial or graffiti brand inks widely avaliable and the best thing most of us have is not even an art store but just a stationary shop.
    The only thing anyone here uses is poscas and the regular shoe polish in kiwis, which is fine by me bc it just makes my shit pop more than faded posca tags. But here's a water-based ink recipe for the dudes with no money that can be made internationally and for little or no extra money. You don't need all or most of the ingredients, just some acrylic or latex paint and a water based ink to thin it with.

    Black shoe polish
    Indian ink
    Methylene Blue solution
    Acriflavine solution
    Water-based stamp pad ink
    Calligraphy ink
    Fountain pen ink

    Mix, leave out to evaporate or chuck it on the stove until you have a thicker consistency

    Add
    Black Acrylic paint
    Dark latex paint
    Potassium Permanganate
    Carbon/Graphite/Lamp Black

    Shake that shit.
    Thin with alcohol if you want

    Flows through marker if ink to paint ratio is high
    Little to no odour
    Does not corrode plastics
    UV fade resistant
    Rain resistant on porous surfaces
    Chemically buffed easily but smears a lot
    Bleeds through blue / gray
    Cheap and universally available
    Non-toxic

    BTW water based does not necessarily mean it is not rain resistant, junobo is acrylic for example and your house is painted in latex paint and I bet that bitch is holding up fine.
     
  7. stover

    stover New Member

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    Here's just some random shit I've learned

    Don't sleep on large quantities of shit ink / paint, an up is an up and you can improve most of your shit anyway

    Junobo paint is acrylic paint with a high Pigment load. Acrylic is also not to be slept on, great colours, quick drying and easily available

    90% of your tags, regardless of how much dye is in your ink, will be buffed, and you will see no stain. I'm not saying stainage doesn't matter, I love that shit, just don't expect your tags to virtually be unbuffable and that there will be a buffman hired 24/7 to buff your tag and he just never gets it off.

    Invisible stealth ink that turns brown is a solution of maybe 2% silver nitrate in water and / or alcohol. I thought it would be handy when i learnt this and I'd just be able to go get my hands on a shit ton of it but Im not really finding anywhere that sells the stuff so don't feel bad for buying it off graffiti suppliers.

    Iodine is acidic
    Okay so the other day I got some Elemental iodine balls in the mail from China. I filled up an empty 250ml under half full with alcohol (Methylated Spirits) and slowly added a teaspoon of the iodine to the alcohol and shook then let it sit and waited until I couldn't hear the iodine balls when I shake it and then repeat. Anyway, after doing this for 5 minutes my eyes start stinging like fuck, not overly painful but super uncomfortable, my eyes are watering, can't open them etc. Anyway turns out the rest of my family was experiencing the same reaction on the other side of the house lmao. I was distracted and being the dumbass I am I ended up shaking the container without the lid on and got the iodine all over my hands. Which doesn't really bother me because my hands are always covered in ink anyway but I start getting this horrible burning sensation. Long story short I burnt my fingers so bad the skin was peeling off and my nails fell off, my skin was really rough and a brown colour for a good week. Turns out iodine can cause severe burns when it enters the blood stream which it did. I think someone should try make a really strong iodine solution and use that as a base for your dyes, it makes a real nice dark reddy brown ink and turns bluish green when it touches anything with starch in it like wood but mainly it would carry the dyes deeper into the surface. Where I've spilt it I notice it's etched into the surface and taken a few layers of paint off. I didn't get to test it, I chucked it out because I couldn't sleep in the same room as the bottle, it was fucking my eyes up.

    Hydrochloric Acid and ferric chloride etch some metals, leaving either a mark where the top layer of zinc was taken off the metal or a nice rust tag. I usually boil some lemon or lime juice and dissolve Citric Acid
    Into it to cut it. Can be mixed with some water based inks and paints.

    Methylene Blue crystals are a pain in the ass. Methylene Blue does not dissolve well in alcohol, MEK, Acetone, kerosene, naphtha, I struggle to get it to dissolve in anything other than water. And I just don't like the idea of adding water to my inks when I've gone to the effort of even removing the alcohol because its not potent enough. I imagine malachite Green will be the same. I've never used it, but from what I hear gentian violet dissolves much better in alcohol, but you can't get it here.

    Most ink products are massively overpriced. Ironlak, MTN, and Block by block especially, brands like OTR, Krink Grog and Molotow are quality products but still often overpriced for the amount and quality of the product you're getting. The only companies than have a right to be expensive are independent ones like O I N K, DED, Illadel (whose products and website I can no longer find) etc and that's because they put in 2x more labour than the established graffiti brands and make half the profit for a product that's better quality.

    Best staining ink on the market imo is O I N K Ink v2 and I can't compliment the dude enough when it comes to customer service.
    For paint, most purchased products, like Ironlak, OTR, Grog, MTN Street paint etc. are practically the same products, so get what's cheap and has colours that you dig. And of course oil based bucket paint thinned down, this is one thing you can make that's just as good if not better than the products sold to you, using diffirent thinners is the key here really.

    If you want to add pigment to an alcohol based ink, you need to suspend it so it doesn't just float down to the bottom. For this, use shellac. With shellac and some crushed charcoal or carbon you've essentially made a black alcohol based paint which won't fade in the sun. This can be mixed with staining recipes too. BTW I'm not 100% positive but potassium permanganate in alcohol reacted with the shellac and caused the shellac and pigments to separate from the liquid which ruined everything.

    You can make something nearly identical as Junobo with artists acrylic and acrylic ink (liquitex) or acrylic medium to thin it out and add some latex paint.
     
  8. baker

    baker Member

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    So My plan was making ink out of a shit ton of pens, 93% denatured alcohol, Dot 3 and leather dye. after i racked a shit ton of pens, i found out that leather dye is really Hard to Come across. what else can i use to get a really stain if buffed?
     
  9. baker

    baker Member

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    alright so i cant find leather dye or dot 3 anywhere, anything i can substitute those 2 ingredients with?
     
  10. DKing333

    DKing333 New Member

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    Is there any way to make an Alcohol base paint? I make clothes. And I want to use this Tulip fabric paint I have but it’s too thick. So I have some ink I made (alcohol and pen ink) and put some with the tulip fabric paint inside my OTR marker. I can get a good consistency and it seems the alcohol comes out but the paint stays behind. I need help please. I AM NEW TO ALL THIS PLEASE EXCUSE ME I’M LEARNING.
    Also if anyone could I’m interested in buying second hand markers, refills etc. for a low price. Here in my city we have no graffiti shops and most people don’t have a part in the culture. They just used spray paints. So if anyone could sell me some that would be badass!!!!!!
     
  11. secta

    secta Member

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    Sell u paint? why don't u just buy offline?
     
  12. DKing333

    DKing333 New Member

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    First off not to be rude my guy, the main point of the post is for recipes of alcohol based paints. But the second part Like I said, is i’m trying to buy CHEAP second hand products. Even if it’s just half a marker. It’s expensive for me to buy the full products. Also i’m not sure which are right for me yet. It’s just a general favor to ask of the community. I don’t know how tightly knit y’all are. But, I also just want general info on graffiti since San Antonio is not cultured in the arts but just has typical graffiti tags. I want to learn more if one would be available to actually teach me personally
     
  13. secta

    secta Member

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    Ok sure i'll send u some markers like almost full also if ur in the uk go to poundland they have cherry boot polish take off the top, take out the blue bit, put the top back on and its basically a mop much better than most mops and its easily refillable. Also if u go to school still get iodine, acid alkali thingy, sulphuric acid etc and refill highlighters its much easier and better also universal indicator has a different colour depends what u write on✌
    edit: ur not in uk lol soz I didn't read that right, plus wdym u wanna do graff and don't like tags?✌
     
  14. DKing333

    DKing333 New Member

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    Hahah nah I meant that in the city where i’m From, graffiti is just basic tags. There is no culture here! It’s just guys with paint making whatever. I mean there’s some good tags up there but for the most part no one really knows about stuff. What I mean basic graffiti stuff is just what you guys know. I know nothing. And a lot of the time I read posts it’s like everything’s in another language! But if you want, I have my own clothing line you could check out ! I’ve never shipped over seas either so the idea of exchanging some stuff with someone in the UK kinda excites me ! I’m open to making homies so if you want add me on Instagram to see the clothes and make a homie? Positivity and the ability to interact is the epitome of the universe brodie.