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Discussion in 'Tools and tips' started by Enmity, Feb 3, 2008.
Sounds legit. In what ratio do u mix all this together?
There's no exact measurements, it'll work with pretty much any ratios but for mops I personally use around 40% Bitumen/ tarmac resealer to 60% Oil based Wood Stain. Then I add enough black oil based paint until it becomes a nice and opaque colour. You don't need any of the other additives neccisarily, but the potassium permanganate disolved in acetone worked well along with the oil base shoe dyes and the other stuff is mainly for speeding up the drying time. The main ingredient is bitumen based wood stain, with tarmac resealer to thin it out without making it stain less. Let me know if I can help
By the way this is like a black ghetto krink recipe but it stains unlike regular paint.
It's not incredible stains like molotow dye ink but it's mad cheap, UV resistant and stains outdoors so I'm happy.
Lurking for a while, but have a somewhat specific question. So here we go.
My bad if this is a kind of, "yeah, nothing really works with that" type Q. Also, this is paint, and not ink.. Anyway.
Anyone have any ideas for making water-based acrylic paint more... Diabolical? I have some sweet colors and that liquitex flow-aid stuff. Looks great, flows nice, no worries. Was just wondering if there's anything nasty that I can add to make it ride harder. Maybe like some type of hardener or gloss? What do ya got? I know the additives for oil-based gk. I'm sure none of that stuff works with anything water-based, couldn't imagine linseed oil or anything like that mixing .
Love to hear what you've got. Cheers.
I'm looking for the same thing myself actually.. The best thing I've found so far is water based / latex paint additives that condition the paint to harden better, there's all kinds of acrylic additives that people use as well, it also depends if you want your paint to dry fast and stay thick or be thin but maintain opacity. I find if you use water based house paint and latex together the film is usually harder and weather's longer, but this also means it can be peeled off like plastic, cause that's basically what it is.
I'm not sure what else you can do with acrylics, someone fill me in too
So hey guys... Recently marsh t grade were discontinued and now I can't find it anywhere... I used the white one to mix it with leather dye to add it thickness and UV resistant... Now I don't know what to use, for my black I'm still using molotow coversall, but I don't know what to use now for my colours inks, I can't find thick ink that is not black, all the colours inks are watery like :c and not very UV resistant. Well and paint and ink don't mix well to each other, in order to have one colour flow ink I just need to find a colour ink in the marker that is not too watery like leather dye Anyone knows something to replace marsh t grade??? I just love coloured ink I know that marsh was a pigmented ink, which confuses me up, because we tend to think about paint when we talk about pigments... So I'm guessing that marsh was thick and UV resistant because of the pigment... Any ideas? Or I'm just gonna get to live with a messy mix between bucket paint and leather dye in order to get a pink or a green ink?
i would try k-grade if i were you. you can get it here. https://artprimo.com/catalog/marsh-grade-stencil-p-4391.html
Could try Marsh 99. It's literally their (xylene-free) replacement for T-Grade. Just google M99-BKD-Q.
Can I use molotow coversall or hard to buff In on my pilot sca 6600
Both are alcohol ink but usually used for pump markers and pilot sca660 isn't a pump marker so is that a problem
so i have a toxic shock mop and i put some white magic ink in it cause it was what i had but it is a bit too thick for this style of marker i need some more squeeze. so i was thinking of mixing it with something thin and flowy or thinning it out in general with some OTR pink flowpen ink. or just thinner but im tole cause it has xylene that would be bad. and i did some cursory searches to see if others had done mixing before but couldnt find anything except mixes for invisible ink. lol anyway is there a thread here or some ink wizards who have insight on this?
...so Wutz Up here..?? Only see complains an shit,...where the ink Talk?? ...
Needa get back on topic again fr
Yo wassup homies , been asking around for a while *not on bombing science* for sum proper staining black ink recipes because i need something that stains if anyones got some dope recipes when it comes to that , HIT ME UP !
Not sure if this is right place to post/ask so in gonna take a chance, has anyone every tried using walnut ink? Like from boiling and straining ? Remembered my wife had talked a few years back about collecting walnuts from the tree in our yard to sell make Ink from, was curious if anyone had any experience or thoughts on using it for marker/mop?
the walnut in walnut ink is basically just a pigment, so you need some sort of binder to bind it to a solvent (probably some sort alcohol to prevent mould) You'd also need to crush it up really really fine cause it can be too coarse to flow. I don't know whether it'd be a really good writing ink, I feel like you'd need a really of concentration of walnut for it not to get sucked up by the wall you're writing on. I also wouldn't use it in a marker because of the particle size.
That makes sense, I think I'd be able to get enough to concentrate it pretty heavily (the recipe I had looked at called for 40-50 walnuts which I believe is around how many I've already had collected not including any that have fallen in last few days) but figured I'd see if anyone had tried something like it before here. Here's link to the recipe, author talks about using it for in sketchbook.. shit nevermind I can't post links yet.
Yo does anyone what the deal is with goof off in their brews?
I've been wondering the same, cuz I've seen it mentioned in mixes but haven't tried and couldn't remember ratios used.
i tried this w some denatured alcohol but right now all ive got is a muddy ink goin on.. i should add more pigment mayb?
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