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The Ink Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Tools and tips' started by Enmity, Feb 3, 2008.

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  1. Juan Garcia

    Juan Garcia New Member

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    Sounds legit. In what ratio do u mix all this together?
     
  2. stover

    stover Member

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    There's no exact measurements, it'll work with pretty much any ratios but for mops I personally use around 40% Bitumen/ tarmac resealer to 60% Oil based Wood Stain. Then I add enough black oil based paint until it becomes a nice and opaque colour. You don't need any of the other additives neccisarily, but the potassium permanganate disolved in acetone worked well along with the oil base shoe dyes and the other stuff is mainly for speeding up the drying time. The main ingredient is bitumen based wood stain, with tarmac resealer to thin it out without making it stain less. Let me know if I can help
     
  3. stover

    stover Member

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    By the way this is like a black ghetto krink recipe but it stains unlike regular paint.
    It's not incredible stains like molotow dye ink but it's mad cheap, UV resistant and stains outdoors so I'm happy.
     
  4. SILE

    SILE New Member

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    Hey all.
    Lurking for a while, but have a somewhat specific question. So here we go.
    My bad if this is a kind of, "yeah, nothing really works with that" type Q. Also, this is paint, and not ink.. Anyway.
    Anyone have any ideas for making water-based acrylic paint more... Diabolical? I have some sweet colors and that liquitex flow-aid stuff. Looks great, flows nice, no worries. Was just wondering if there's anything nasty that I can add to make it ride harder. Maybe like some type of hardener or gloss? What do ya got? I know the additives for oil-based gk. I'm sure none of that stuff works with anything water-based, couldn't imagine linseed oil or anything like that mixing .
    Love to hear what you've got. Cheers.
     
  5. stover

    stover Member

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    I'm looking for the same thing myself actually.. The best thing I've found so far is water based / latex paint additives that condition the paint to harden better, there's all kinds of acrylic additives that people use as well, it also depends if you want your paint to dry fast and stay thick or be thin but maintain opacity. I find if you use water based house paint and latex together the film is usually harder and weather's longer, but this also means it can be peeled off like plastic, cause that's basically what it is.

    I'm not sure what else you can do with acrylics, someone fill me in too
     
  6. Napo

    Napo Member

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    So hey guys... Recently marsh t grade were discontinued and now I can't find it anywhere... I used the white one to mix it with leather dye to add it thickness and UV resistant... Now I don't know what to use, for my black I'm still using molotow coversall, but I don't know what to use now for my colours inks, I can't find thick ink that is not black, all the colours inks are watery like :c and not very UV resistant. Well and paint and ink don't mix well to each other, in order to have one colour flow ink I just need to find a colour ink in the marker that is not too watery like leather dye :( Anyone knows something to replace marsh t grade??? I just love coloured ink :( I know that marsh was a pigmented ink, which confuses me up, because we tend to think about paint when we talk about pigments... So I'm guessing that marsh was thick and UV resistant because of the pigment... Any ideas? Or I'm just gonna get to live with a messy mix between bucket paint and leather dye in order to get a pink or a green ink? :(
     
  7. Ciph

    Ciph Member

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  8. BERZ-ACAB

    BERZ-ACAB Member

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    Could try Marsh 99. It's literally their (xylene-free) replacement for T-Grade. Just google M99-BKD-Q.
     
  9. Romah

    Romah New Member

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    Can I use molotow coversall or hard to buff In on my pilot sca 6600
    Both are alcohol ink but usually used for pump markers and pilot sca660 isn't a pump marker so is that a problem