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Discussion in 'Toys forum' started by koper, Jan 12, 2007.
ALWAYS USE BARS TO MAKE LETTERS ALWAYS
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The Following Was Stolen From Pure-Graff. Mods: If you don't want it on here, feel free to delete it.
This is an issue that isnt stressed enough. This thread is mainly for people who havent painted in yards before or have and dont know what they are doing. All the heads can add some tips and information in this thread that will be helpfull, all others should read up.
NUMBER 1-Dont get seen! This should be a no-brainer for anybody who paints right. But I still go down to the local yard here and see kids painting in there from the road just walking around bombing the shit out of everything. If you paint in a yard make sure that nobody sees you, and this goes from workers, people who live in that area and local businesses to hero joe who walks by and hates graffiti. The less you are seen the less heat get sput on the yard because nobody knows that painting is going on there and they will leave the security pretty slack.
NUMBER 2-Leave the numbers! every train has to legaly have a set of numbers on it. This includes stuff such as the weight limits and capacity of the freight. They will usually be in a box at one of the ends of the car. When you paint over them the rail company has to take that car off of hte tracks to get those numbers restampes back on it. The cost isnt cheap and this will make rail security tight. There is usually always room to paint around the numbers. Dont take cardboard and tape to cover them up, this just creats more of a mess that youll have to take out of the yard later.
NUMBER 3-Clean up your mess! Do not leave your mess in the yard. This is a simple thing that will keep your yard chill. Dont just throw you can a few feet into the bushes or leave them around the freights, just throw it in your bag or stuff in under your shirt and get rid of it away from the yard. Dont leave tips around either, or paint spilled on rocks. If this happens then kick the dirt up to hide the paint. The idea is to make it look like the painting of the particular freights didnt go on on that yard. Dont test your paint on plants or gravel or the tracks. If you must, test your paint on an unrelated piece of the car.
NUMBER 4-Dont get retarted! When you paint in a yard dont go ape-shit and start painting every train. Workers will reconize this and will have to report it. Dont paint more than two freights in a line and make sure that they are spaced out. The same art on two freights side by side is a dead give in that the art was done there because the frieghts get switched up and mixed around when they come into the yard. Also when you paint dont follow any routines, workers will catch on. If you paint the same cars in the same lines, the workers who are out there everyday will begon to notice and whether they like it or not, they will have to report it.
NUMBER 5-Observe! When you go to a yard that you havent been to before and want to paint, observe. Go there for a bit before you even consider bringing paint, and look for things like ways in and out without getting seen. Also learn what times they do the switch-ups at. This will help you learn whats going on so you can stay safe in the yard from teh freights and getting caught by workers.
you do what you want
So, for the first tutorial I thought it would be best to put up a basic stencil cutting tutorial for those still unsure about the basic process. Keep in mind that this is by no means the only way for you to do this, just the most effecient way I have found so far.
Generally, the application and use of your stencil will dictate what materials will be most suitable. For example, for indoor work on walls or doors when you have all the time you need, using adhesive contact may be used as it is easy to cut and prevents any 'underspray' from occuring as it is stuck completely flat against the surface (thus not needing tape or anyone to hold the stencil too). However, for work on the streets when time and speed are all important you will need to cut your stencil out of something more durable, such as a medium weight cardboard which can just be held against the wall and sprayed through quickly. Another good technique is to print out or photocopy your stencil design and have it laminated. This will still be quite easy to cut and they hold their shape surprisingly well.
Once you know where you will be doing your stencil and you have an idea in mind, you need to begin constructing your image either on paper or on the computer. When constructing your image it is important to remember the fundamentals of a basic stencil, you cannot have any enclosed white spaces or 'islands' inside any black areas (because essentialy these black areas are what you will be cutting out).
Now once you have your image on paper you can either glue it on to some thicker cardboard with spray adhesive to make it more durable, or get your image laminated which will serve the same purpose. What you will also find that after a number of sprays the stencil will hardern as the paint layers dry also strengthening your stencil.
There are a number of things that can be used to cut out your stencil. Stanley knives, boxcutters, razor blades and scissors can all be used, but in my experience the trusty exacto knife is the most reliable and the best for achieving fine details You hold these knives much like a pencil at an angle of about 50 degrees, and always be careful as most blades for these knives are extremely sharp. Also be sure to have adequate protection underneath your stencil to avoid damaging whatever your cutting on.
5. The Great Moment
Once you have finished cutting out all the details of your stencil you are ready for its application. Traditionally with most street based stencils spray paint has been used as a quick and economical means to apply the image to street walls. Try and use a quality matte paint as it will last much longer and avoids any unwanted glare and reflections on your stencil that can occur from using gloss based paints. When applying your stencil to the wall or wherever you are going to spray it, make sure it is as flat against the surface as possible to avoid underspray and keep your lines crisp.
Finally, try and remember that the best and most interesting works come about when the image and its placement on the streets play together, with the architecture and image communicating as one.
Really good color site
Borowed from Totse.com
An Introduction to Graffiti
If you want to do graffiti and are afraid to break the law please stop reading this now. Legal graffiti is an oxymoron. A scourge. Graffiti is not a form of art, it is not made for MTV, the back of your backpack, t shirts or impressing chicks. It's a community, a hobby, a lifestyle, a brotherhood. It's a place people exist and live, please do not shit in our house, respect our rules and those who have come before you.
Learn to tag first, and to learn to tag you need to learn to read it. Ride the buses and all that, look for it when you're walking around. Then you need to emulate it.
It takes about 2 years of nonstop everyday filling all your notebooks with tags until you can even think about not being a toy. Toy is tagger slang for someone who doesn't know shit, or a poser. We also don't call ourselves taggers, we call ourselves writers.
And before you ask yes you need to learn to tag before you can do those insane artistic murals, called pieces. Tag first, baby steps, thats all there is to it.
It'll help a lot if you can get someone to show you. A lot of people think that writers are like gangsters, but I've experienced nothing but a tight community with a few exceptions. Generally nice people. Graffiti came from hip hop not rap, it also has strong punk roots.
Just keep on "bookworming", buy some magazines from your local skateshop, hip hop store or wherever and eventually writers will find you. So long as you realize you don't know shit and are respectful they won't mind helping you out a bit.
You'll need something to write too, a name. Don't choose something toy like "death" or "stoner-dude". In general 3 letter names are reserved for crews (groups of people who write together, like awr [angels will rise]). You want something cool like shok, skuf, saber or zephyr. A lot of times people get there names given to them by older writers. don't choose something too long either, and if you don't like it don't be afraid to change to something else till you find something that fits.
Oh yeah its also considered impolite or disrespectful to ask someone what they write. Respect is also everything in graffiti, but remember RESPECT IS EARNED NOT GIVEN.
Anywho after two years you can start actually "getting up" (deface property). You need streakers, or paint sticks (art stores), or paint pens (pens with a little spraypaint ball inside them) or really big markers like magnums or pilots. www.beatbreaks.com is a good site (look under art supplies).
I don't recommend scribing, or carving windows. You can do it with any old rock, a chip from a spark plug's ceramic or a scribe from a glass store but most police take pictures of every glass tag, so if you get caught you can get put away for a long ass time (very expensive to replace a glass window).
Then theres spraypaint. ACE cans and those cheap ones have caps on them that make graffiti impossible. OSH cans are the best of the worse, they'll do in a fix because there cheap but have a tendency to fuck up and have shitty colors, except for OSH silver which looks sick.
Krylon and Rusto are the good stuff, Rusto colors look different from Krylon (make sure it says "flat"), you learn to recognize the difference and get a preference after a while.
There's also Montana and Beltone, which are designed for graffiti, but expensive. Plus you can rack (steal) Krylon, Rusto and OSH cans. But you also need caps, if you don't live near a graff friendly store then just buy a hundred or so off of the Internet (they're cheap wholesale, as in ~10 bucks for a hundred).
Normal caps (stock) usually spray out too much paint and therefor drip (very bad). Fat caps spread out the paint and make a big line, good for fills and throwups. You can make fat caps look neat and such by going really fast with them. Stock caps can also be used though, you just need to experiment with speed and how close you hold it to the wall. ironically using stock caps is one of the best ways to get can control.
Outlines make less come out and are good for anything (Beltone and Montana come with them). Rusto caps have a dot in them and are good for fills, or anything else. The difference between American and German caps is merely a matter of preference, though I like Americans more myself.
Throwups are basically not very complicated pieces or bubble letters, traditionally black and white. You can do them fast and if you're good you can do them with style (style is everything). If you're going to do a throwup make sure you fill it, because you're a toy if you don't. Oh yeah going out and doing throwups all over is called bombing.
Pieces are murals, you'll learn to develop your own style through practice. You need to practice a lot and get can control too like on a shed in your friends back yard or something. You should "cut" your lines, move fast with precision, calm, no thoughts running through your mind. Straight neat lines are much harder then they look. The secret to making a piece burn though is shading, gradients and detail.
Characters are also fun to do, you just draw someone with really extreme features. Usually start with a circle, a line where the eyes and nose are going to be, then draw the nose, the eyes, the ears, the jaw n like that, so that you're like going in a circle filling in the person's detail. Learn to use lots of shading and take your time, it helps a lot. Think of everything in 3D not 2D with shading. The nice thing about graffiti is it gives you art, design, fighting, quick thinking and running skills that transfer to other things.
Which brings us to our next point, the police. In short fuck em. if you go out solo or just one other person, sober, and aren't a fucking moron you wont get caught. keep your eyes open, and if you see the police, or some off duty fireman who wants to be a hero run. run and don't stop, run to a place cars cant get to like train tracks and run until your veins pump battery acid, then run some more. i've had had 6 cops chasing after me for half a night. hop some fences, stash anything that could used against you and keep running.
we rarely get caught, thats why police hate us so much.
Also if you get good and want to go bust a sick piece (or look at some) without worrying about the police you need to learn the spots, like underground tunnels, huge walls in the middle of nowhere. Then theres layups, where they store the trains at. Thats a whole 'nother side of graffiti (I'm a street bomber myself, though i've hit up the trains a few times).
So lastly i give you some basic rules graffiti, do not break them.
DO NOT BITE THE HAND THAT FEEDS! Biting is copying someones style, the way they write there letters, something like that. You know exactly when you're doing it, so don't. You'll seriously get fucked up bad if you do, even if its out of a magazine or something on the Internet (its a close community, word gets around).
Respect those who have come before you, learn the history
Do not ex other peoples tags, even if they ex'd you first, this is for gang bangers and toys who start shit because they have no style. "If you have beef eat a pork chop."
Do not tag tombstones, peoples houses (fences are fair game), memorials, or cars (except police cars, U-Haul trucks, semis and abandoned cars).
Throw ups go over tags, pieces go over throw ups. this is how it is, don't cry about it.
If you're a pussy graff will motivate you to get out there, you'll meet cool people and see some weird shit. So go buy a copy of the "wild style" video, check out all the sites on graffiti.org and read the few good posts on puregraffiti.com and bombingscience.com.
Also don't ever put crowns or any of that shit above your tags or pieces, its called the mark of the toy for a reason.
cross-one AT ziplip DOT com
made a video tutorial for the letter "E"... check it out!!!
how to blend+use prisma markers/color pencils
i know this is a tutorial only thread but i dont know where else to put this link.
alot of you come here and dont know what alot of things mean. the url says it itself how it can help you.
i found this site it has some good stuff on it like for example one i havent seen here yet a graff writers bible and tons more click here hope it helps
Tutorial on putting a drop shadow on your piece, because I'm bored. If you've got a drop shadow on your piece it's going to look like its separete from the wall and kind of floating off of it, if it's done right. I've seen people try to do this and it looks like they used a fat cap to put a huge line around their shit and they ruined it.
Get your shit together and put your outline on.
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Spray your shadow. Test out your paint, spraying it from far back on some other place so that you don't put it on too thick. Go to it and spray at an angle so you don't get overspray in your fill. Make sure you get every part where it would be visable, otherwise that's stupid.
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Doesn't look too good because the black is against your outline, which is probably black too. Put your forcefeild on to finish it off. Done. This doesn't look like it's floating too much becuase I only painted a corner, if you could see the other corner on it like a square (and it was done with effort put into it) it would give you more of that effect.
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Cutting lines tutorial.
Again done with scrap cans, used tips, and my crappy can control. If you want sharp edges in your piece you'll have to cut lines. If you cut every little edge your probably going to spend forever, but if you want that razor sharp point here and there it will bring your piece one step up.
First, don't use a shitty background like this. I tried to water down paint to make it last longer.
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Do your outline and fill. I'm using a random shape for this with an inner and outer corner. Notice how the inner corner is a sharp edge and the outer corner isn't.
That's because your tip sprays a circle, not a pinpoint line. The way you made the sharp corner on the inside corner is the way you cut any line, overlapping. Your paint will have to cover.
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For the fun of it i'll throw in a fade.
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Do your outline, prefferably not with an almost empty, spurty, shit can. Doesn't matter because these line's are getting cut though.
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Throwing in an inline with the primary fill color. This is also cutting one side of the black line, notice how its a bit sharper.
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The halo was put on and some bubbles added. I overlapped the corner of the green into the black a bit, then went over that with black creating the sharp corner in the halo. Oops, went back into the blue. Doesn't matter, I'll cut that shit.
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Cut that line, and used some white to fix the shitty overspray on the halo. If my background was white, and not transparent, showing the paint underneith, it would look a lot more solid.
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Need to put on that bottom part of the halo. Now the black line is nice and sharp on that outer corner.
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Used white to cut the green, giving a sharp halo. Since my background is white and I have white paint I can do that. If your using a colored base, wich you probably will, your not going to be able to do this without some magical matching paint, or cutting the line with the fucking roller. You'll need can control to put a good halo on your piece that's got a nice edge, practicing cutting lines will help you with this.
There you have it, a half-assed line cutting tutorial.
A site by mr wiggles.
Prismacolor shading, people been asking me how so...
[Broken External Image]:http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/6195/dsc0811ua0.jpg
usually I use 4 colors, a dark (red) a light (yellow) and two in between (oranges)...
1st lay down the darkest color in upward strokes...like so...
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next lay down the second color (darker orange) in the same strokes...
[Broken External Image]:http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4926/dsc0814nj0.jpg
repeat with third color...
[Broken External Image]:http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/8796/dsc0817ca3.jpg
and the fourth...
[Broken External Image]:http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/3447/dsc0820sf3.jpg
[Broken External Image]:http://img486.imageshack.us/img486/2076/dsc0822jy7.jpg
YOU DONE BITCHES...the trick is to do this fast when the ink is still wet, it helps blend the colors, other than that it's not rocket science, I just did this cause I was bored...
[Broken External Image]:http://www.mrwiggles.biz/116e900b0.jpg
*edit by SUMOE
DON'T BITE THESE, THEY'RE JUST FOR GUIDANCE
a good tip for toys ....i did this when i started out....draw each letter of ur tag seperatly....cut them out....and place them together to get a better flow...u can move them around and turn them at angles till its all fitting perfectly...and if u cant make it fit perfectly...u can learn from ur cut outs wat u need to do to make it flow good..... u can do it on photoshop too.......once ur letters are placed and ur sketch is good...just draw from the cutouts.....i see alot of ppl with dope letters but they look shit cos thers no flow..or letters are placed out wrong....
I found something that really helps me. i write my tag name in my regular hand writing like 20 times a gay and bend it around, still in regular, 10 times. then write the bent one you like best bigger and number your strokes (like the first line u make is 1, second is 2, etc.) and draw from the numbers
The "shitty" tutorial video by Hepos of 666. Helped me a lot...i added music to it hepos, sorry if you don't like the song, my music library wasn't as big at the time. Its better than complete silence though. Click the link and you can watch it, or download it. Your welcome toyz
graffiti_tutorial_by_hepos_666.wmv - 46.39MB
wow, good job on the music choice, thanks man.
heres another one i did a month or two back. for some reason photobucket fucks up the video quality. my bad
Tutorials only//Post deleted
everywhere but the montana website apparently. . . . . .
what a surprise that its there.
<3 makes it look easy.
not a tutorial.
thsoe are basic? i never seen a keyboard font that looked like that
u know that enema is were they stick a tube up ur ass and clean ur ass out.
p.s my moms a nurse thats how i found out.
Just thought I'd post a list of names that are played out(if you have any others please contribute)
That's all I can think of for now.
It's not like you cannot have these names no matter what,if you like them have them,but you might get some bad looks if you ever reveal your name to another more experienced writer.
SCOPE are played to, i had a whole list aa second ago but i just got a mental blank
Sen is madd overused as well
I dont know if this is a sin to say. but one thing I like to do is bite people shit. I know its like the cardinal sin on here but it really helps to try to imitate people. you can get a feel for how they do letters and you can figure out what works for you. obviously dont go painting bit letters and things but when your messing around or are having a block just look at peoples stuff and if you see something you like try to imitate it. then develope it.
can someone can make me a ZICE PLEASE !!
im gonna try to do it later ^^
i got a toy question bout caps. what caps come stock on the montana paint when you order from bombingscience?
none, usualy at graff shops they let you select 1
step 5: Run.
Separate names with a comma.